Articles – Page 44 – Colin Harkness on Wine

THE INTERNATIONAL WINE TOURISM CONFERENCE 2016

The 8^th IWINETC was recently held in Cataluña, near Barcelona. I was delighted to be invited to attend, as a staff member!

My role was to be threefold – Moderator of the Panel Discussion on basic Dos & Don’ts of Wine Tourism; Tour Guide; General Dogsbody! Although quite physically demanding, I relished all three.

The International Wine Tourism Conference, which is a unique opportunity for all those involved in Wine Tourism to meet, network and plan further development, is the brainchild of much travelled Anthony Swift, who now resides in the hills above Villafranca del Penedés. Anthony is also responsible for the lauded ’50 Great Cavas’ competition, which, after a good deal of tasting and visiting, translates into an impressive, beautifully designed and finished publication, which readers may like to buy (www.winepleasures.com), perhaps for a surprise Christmas present this year – though stocks are limited!

Just some of the 300+ delegates enjoying some Cava before the inauguration of IWINETC 2016

There were two days, Tuesday and Wednesday, of fascinating talks by speakers from countries of origin as diverse as: Indonesia, India, China, USA, Australia, Hungary, Moldova, Bulgaria, Greece, Romania and Montenegro to name several, though by no means all! Delegates from varied walks of life, all related to Wine Tourism, of course, began arriving on Sunday, with a large influx on Monday. This was to be my first day of action!

IWINETC Founder Anthony Swift in action!

Cava Llopart was my destination, where grapes have been grown since at least 1385, as a document has been discovered which proves this, and where, in 1857 the Llopart family wine business started. Llopart was one of the first to produce Cava in the area and the 4^th and 5^th generation of the family are doing the same today!

Llopart Cavas are very well known in the area of Cataluña, but, as production is limited from this relatively small winery, they are not so well known in the rest of Spain, or indeed in the world, as only 15% of their production is exported. However, the quality of their products is such that they should be extremely well known – outstanding cava.

An excellent visit at Cava Llopart - enjoyed by the whole group! — An excellent visit at Cava Llopart – enjoyed by the whole group!

And an outstanding guide! Cristina, one of the panel members of the discussion I was to chair a couple of days later, has the knowledge and the ability to impart it in user-friendly terms, and with a smile as delicious as the cava we tasted. Cristina heads the small Wine Tourism Project – and I’ll be back!

The next day was the first of the days which were to concentrate on all manner of talks centred on wine tourism, with the highlight, for me certainly, being that being presented by Sarah Jane Evans MW (Master of Wine). Like all Masters of Wine, Sarah Jane has an immense depth of knowledge about all things wine orientated (the title gives it away, really!), but her specialist area is Spanish wine. I knew I could learn from her, of course, it was just a question of whether I would be able to attend her talk on Cava, and the tasting of her selection of 8 cavas, each high ranking in the aforementioned publication, ‘50 Great Cavas’.

An inspirational talk about Cava from Sarah Jane Evans MW - Spanish Wine Expert. — An inspirational talk about Cava from Sarah Jane Evans MW – Spanish Wine Expert.

Fortunately, as it happened, Anthony had me down on his list as ‘dogsbody’ for this keynote talk and I was to meet Sarah Jane before the event to discuss her needs, re timing, glasses, pouring etc. I have to say that this was a highlight of the whole week for me! Charming, erudite, intellectual and happy to share knowledge, it was an instructive pleasure to spend some time with Sarah Jane. The more so to find that we had views in common, for example re the importance of placing the date of disgorgement on the back labels of cava bottles, and more.

As chief bottle opener (have you ever opened just under 150 bottles of cava?!), I unfortunately didn’t have much of a chance to taste any of the cavas, nor to listen to all Sarah Jane’s comments. However, her standing ovation at the end of the talk, told the story of how popular a talk it was.

That night there was a Gala Dinner to be held in the elegant restaurant of the largest sparkling wine producer in the world! That’s right – Freixenet, whose countless millions of bottles sit silently in the dimly lit cellars that run for kilometres underneath the streets of Cava’s natural home, Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, until it is their time to come into the spotlight in one of the countries of all five continents in which the Freixenet Fizz is sold!

First though – the tour! As I’ve been in Spanish wine tourism for 19 years now, since even before the word ‘Enoturismo’ had been coined, I seem to naturally gravitate to the guide’s seat at the head of the bus, in contrast to being always at the rear as our group went ‘on tour’. And what a tour it was – at each of the several stops, which took in the museum above ground and then the various levels below, there was a glass of cava for us all, accompanied by a paired tapa. And, whilst there is nothing wrong with the world famous, distinctively bottled, Cordon Negro, the cavas served to this knowledgeable group were all top cuvees!

Each dish of the four course dinner that followed was also, of course, paired with cavas from their huge portfolio. An excellent, though very late, evening!

The next day I was determined not to miss the much anticipated talk about Wine Tourism in India, to be given by Subhash Arora, one of the real characters of the conference! Entertaining and highly knowledgeable, Subhash charmed us into wanting to visit such an ancient culture with such a nascent wine tourism industry by talking us through the various wine routes he recommends.

Later it was my turn! Mine was really Mission Impossible, in fact, my opening line to the 100+ people who attended. The idea was that I should tease out of the distinguished panel members, each of whom had been asked to consider the idea from a different perspective, as well as from the audience, a definitive list of Dos and Don’ts regarding Wine Tourism. German, Jochen Erler, played the role of the Wine Tourist; Sarah May Grunwald is a Wine Tour Operator specialising in Georgian Wine Tours; and Cristina Soler, Guide and Head of Wine Tourism at Cava Llopart.

That night we had another Gala Dinner, this time after we had toured Bodegas Torres, probably the most famous winemaking family in Spain. Another fascinating and extremely tasty tour – though there’s not enough space to include details here.

For the final two days I was back in my familiar position as guide – the venues were really excellent, with such committed and passionate people, all keen to tell us their own, unique stories. Again though, there simply isn’t the space to include them here!

My final thought is one of great optimism – for Wine Tourism, of course, but also for the human condition! There were over 25 different countries represented at the International Wine Tourism Congerence 2016. Countries, all with history, and not always a pleasant one at that, and yet there was not an unpleasant word spoken, heard or I’m sure, thought! The IWINETC was uplifting, in every respect!

www.iwinetc.com

My next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme on www.totalfm.es is live on Sunday 1st May from 6:30pm – 8pm (Spanish Time). Wine Chat, Tasting Tips and Info as well as Restaurant news and Wine/Food suggestions – it’s all there, with some fun too! Then Sunday 15th May and every two weeks after that!

PS If you think Indian Cuisine is best paired with beer, I suggest you think again – and join me at Restaurante Kathmandu, Moraira on Sunday 8^th May; and at their sister restaurant, Kathmandu, in Javea on Sunday May 22^nd, for a super Spanish Wine/Indian Cuisine Pairing Evening! Please e-mail colin@colinharknessonwine.com for more info and to reserve the few places left!

Cannals Y Munné Fine Fizz & Wine!

CANALS Y MUNNÉ ARE STILL SPARKLING!

There are couple of puns in the title and I’ve plagiarised my own work from a few years ago – but hey, I’ll make it easy for you. Complex wines are OK, in fact they are to be relished, but complexity in Cork Talk, when you are just settling down to a good read with a nice cup of coffee? Well, you can do without a puzzle, I guess!

Five generations ago the family Canals Munné (which remains in control to this day) planted their first vineyards in Can Canals – the vines took root, and so did the legend! They make excellent Cava – really top drawer; plus they also make very good still wines. Hence the play on words above. OK, furrowed brows now relaxed and ready to read on? Then I’ll begin!

One thing I’ve noticed over the years is that, in most cases, Spanish wineries are not slow to take up new ideas. There are exceptions, of course, but generally, whilst keeping in touch with tradition, they are also keen to move forward. The Spanish wine scene is thus refreshingly dynamic.

I’m writing this a few weeks before I make my biennial pilgrimage to Alimentaria, the huge wine and food fair in Barcelona, where I just know I will see changes from two years ago – in terms of emphasis, technology, wine-making innovation and, bottle and label design.

The latter, is particularly relevant here. My old friend Albert Carcereny from Bodegas Canals & Munné has kept me informed over the years of any news relating to the bodega and his recent communication about the label change caught my eye. It’s typical of this winery to keep on the move, eschewing the thought of resting on one’s capacious laurels.

Their design team has decided that the bodega needs a new image, label-wise, to keep them at the cutting edge of a very competitive market. And to prepare consumers, so there can be no doubt about whose wines they are buying, they thought it best to send the information to the press to help diffuse the news.

I hope the change didn’t cost them the vast amount of money that Gonzalez y Byass spent on their Tio Pepe Fino Sherry bottle change a few years ago – a staggering amount that will take years to recoup in sales terms! However, thinking about it now, I actually can’t remember what the old style Tio Pepe bottles looked like – so, in the long run I guess it was worth (will be?) worthy it!

The new labels on the Canals & Munné range are simple, minimalist, modern – and effective. They are now firmly implanted in my brain and I’ll look out for them, which is no doubt the desired effect!

But what of the wine? Well, I had no concerns there – I’ve never tasted a poor Canals & Munné wine, and I didn’t expect to here. I wasn’t disappointed.

It so happened that the lovely Claire and I were in a celebratory mood recently – I’m not sure why, perhaps because it was a Friday?! I opened my Cave Vinum and Canals & Munné’s Insuperable Brut Cava, almost leapt out! It was a clear sign!

Made with the traditional and classic Cava blend, Macabeo, Xarel.lo and Parellada – this time, 40%, 30% and 30% respectively, there is an elegance about the wine too. It’s had 25 months en rima (resting upside-down on its lees) in the cellar, making it a Reserva (in fact it’s had 10 months longer than the minimum time in order for a cava to be proclaimed a Reserva) and this shows in its mouth-feel.

It retains that celebratory note that we all love in sparkling wines, but it’s not at all shallow, as are so many of the cheap cavas. It’s the extra time en rima that has achieved this, of course, but also the blend. Macabeo gives us that wonderful apple vibrant acidity that keeps cava fresh, but it’s the body of the Xarel.lo and the finesse of the Parellada that make a major contribution to this cava!

Please also note that the important date of disgorgement is also printed on the back label!

I once called Xarel.lo ‘the new Chardonnay’. It doesn’t have the same taste and aroma profile as the ubiquitous friend but it does have the same knack of being full in flavour and the ability to add significantly to blends as well as being content to be on its own. Plus it’s perfectly happy with oak, from largish doses to ‘ the semi-crianza roble’ style.

Gran Blanc Prínceps Xarel.lo FB 2015 has had just three months in barrel following its fermentation in same. At this moment, it is I believe, slightly unbalanced in that it hasn’t yet had time to settle into the super whole that it will no doubt become. I’ve tasted this wine before, but in different vintages and when it has had over 6 months in bottle. It’s one of those wines that defies the general rule that Spanish whites should be enjoyed when young.

I’m not sure of its price, but if you can – buy it now and wait until Christmas! Served with turkey, and chicken, it will, by then, be really good. It will also suit rice dishes, paella of course, but also risotto, and for these I thin k you’ll be able to enjoy the wine a little earlier – the start of summer and throughout Autumn too!

I have a glass of the Blanc Prínceps Blanc de Blanc Muscat right now! The raison and grape aromas are swirling around my laptop, making me stop writing and reach for the glass too often! It’s a lovely wine made from Moscatel, with floral notes on the nose as well as the fruit, which goes onto the palate and leaves a really lovely taste as you swallow.

It may shock, but try this wine with Indian cuisine – it’s a super match that we enjoyed last night!

So, that’s three from Canals Munné, and there are a whole lot more! Look for the new label and buy with confidence!

Www.canalsimunne.com

NB my next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme on Total FM 91:8 and www.totalfm.es is on Sunday 3^rd April from 7pm – 8pm Spain time. I’ll be tasting 3(!) wines from Bodegas Castaño, DOP Yecla on-air and talking about the wines, pairing them with food, the Bodegas Castaño wine tourism etc. Comments and questions will be welcome colin@colinharknessonwine.com and texts to 629 388 159!

You can also join Colin’s 1,060 followers on Twitter as well as connecting with him via Facebook (Colin Harkness) – to hear all the news about the Spanish Wine Scene!

Bodega Dehesa De Luna

Just as the jeans-clad, ponytailed Pablo Iglesias, Secretary General of the nascent Podemos Political Party, strolled defiantly into the be-suited parliament, post General Election, demanding change; so too is the younger generation of vine growing, wine making dynasties seeking, at least modification, at best(?) a radical overhaul of the system.

THE MOON GODDESS

As we approach the 2020’s the, once very conservative, Spanish wine scene is slowly being turned upside down – a reflection perhaps of the current political state of the nation.

DOs: La Mancha, Utiel-Requena, Cava and others, including the iconic DOCa Rioja, have all recently seen prestigious bodegas jumping ship and going on their own. There will be more – mark my words – before those indolent, stuck-in-the-mud and stagnating Denominaciónes de Origen finally realise that, in a dynamic national and world-wide wine scene, there has to be, first reflection and then meaningful change.

The former, now; the latter, very soon.

One of the changes over the past decade, and more, that has occurred, and very successfully too, is the fact that Vino de la Tierra wines can no longer be considered to be in some way lesser than wines labelled DO. In fact, in some cases, it’s quite the reverse – which should be high on the agenda of those DOs who are now embarking on a course of reflection, as above.

I recently received a brace of wines from Bodega Dehesa De Luna (The Moon Godess) VdlT de Castilla, Albacete, whose small portfolio should really be a wake-up call to under-performing, laurel-sitting Denominaciónes de Origen.

Their labels, as well as their name, are give-aways re this bodega’s philosophy and, to a point their method of vine growing and wine making. Phases of the moon are depicted on the labels, and it’s this phenomenon, observed first at the dawn of man, that is central to Bodega Dehesa De Luna.

It’s not yet true to say that Bodegas Dehesa De Luna is a biodynamic bodega, they may never make that transition. However it is clear that their approach to vine tending and wine making goes beyond just organic principles. A look at their website will show that they are in tune with nature – they care about the land that they share with plant and animal life. And, it shows in their wines.

Luna Lunera Tempranillo 2014 (just 4€ from the online shop!) is made exclusively from Tempranillo, Spain’s darling, noble grape variety (though, for me it should be considered as, one of . . ). The 2014 growing season saw a considerable elevation in temperatures, with a simultaneous, unfortunate drop (excuse the pun!) in rainfall, which us usually low anyway! The result was that as the vines were under stress, the grapes had to be harvested early. However, a suffering (but not too, too much) vine will produce excellent grapes for wine making. Thus the 2014 Luna Lunera is particularly lush on the palate.

It’s a darkly coloured wine, clean, bright and attractive in the glass. On the nose there are some violet, floral aromas with some dark berry fruits, blackberry and blueberry, coming through. On the palate this fruit, aided and abetted by lighter coloured, ripe strawberry and loganberry, takes centre stage. It’s so juicy it almost sings!

It’s a semi-crianza, roble, red wine whose brief 3 months ageing in French and American oak has influenced the nose a little (traces on vanilla and a faint smokiness) and the palate too where you’ll note a touch of toasted wood, along with some back-up smokiness. I appreciate the food-compatible, slightly bitter liquorice on the finish, which rounds off a wine to simply drink as well as enjoy with perhaps pasta, chicken and pork, as well as tapas, of course!

Dehesa de Luna 2013 (8€), which has a month’s phases of the moon as a centre-point on the label, is a step up in complexity and depth. A more serious wine, yes, but still having the byline – fruit first!

The Spring of 2013 as unusually cold and took its time to warm up into Summer, consequently vine development, front flower formation onwards, was delayed. The harvest, depending on each of the varieties involved in this wine – Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot, took just over 2 weeks and was a touch later than normal, whilst waiting for the fruit to mature fully.

The result is a wine that has, for me, a slightly French spin to it. Tempranillo is a very Spanish variety (although now grown all over the world, though not that I’ve heard of in France!) of course, but its bedfellows have a distinct French accent! It’s quite a full and rich Spanish red which also manages an engaging elegance, and I believe, eloquence too.

The aim of Bodega Dehesa De Luna is to create wines to speak of their terroir. The land between the rows of vines are covered with low lying overgrowth which attracts insects who also attach vine pests. This cover also helps contain what little rainfall there is, whilst also encouraging the vines to dig deeper into the earth. Then, when the harvest is over this growth can be be dug into the soil to help replace any lost nitrogen. Healthy soil means healthy vines and of course there is a pleasing sustainability about the whole project.

Once the various varieties have finished their fermentation in stainless steel, with malolactic fermentation following, the master blender gets to work before the wine is finally placed in 225 litre barrels, where is stays for a period of about 6 months. Barrels are tasted to decide when is the exactly right time to bottle – then the wine is ready for the market.

And, whilst it’s drinking very well right now it will reward those who are prepared to wait at least a year (try three!) when nit will have developed still further. Right now there is a very good all dark fruit presence, blackberry and blackcurrant with faint blueberry notes too. There is a touch of undergrowth on the nose which also underpins the rich fruit when the wine is held on the palate. There are toasty oak notes, though shy at first, and you may just feel, rather than taste, a slight Syrah based black pepper element too.

www.bodegadehesadeluna.com

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and Facebook Colin Harkness and Twitter @colinonwine

Don’t forget also that Colin has his own fortnightly radio programme on www.totalfm.es Total FM 91·8 from /pm – 8pm Spanish time. The next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme is on Sunday 20^th March, sponsored by DOP Yecla and Bodegas La Purísima, two of whose wines he’ll be tasting on-air whilst also sampling tapas from Restaurante Nesfor, Javea. You’d be mad to miss it!

COSTA BLANCA/COSTA CALIDA WINE TASTING TOUR

Our venues were: the absolute luxury of the Asia Gardens hotel in Benidorm; the elegance of the Denia Marriott; and the golfer’s sheer paradise, the Intercontinental La Manga Golf and Spa Resort. It took quite an effort not to be overawed!

COSTA BLANCA/COSTA CALIDA WINE TASTING TOUR

I’m now just about recovered from a delightfully hectic three-day wine tasting tour which took in: the Costa Blanca and the Costa Calida. Three splendid locations, approximately 150 clients and eight different wines. Frenetic, exhausting, at times stressful – but what a buzz!

In this matter, though, I was considerably helped by those who both organised the tasting tour and particularly by those who attended the tastings. Each different group had their personalities, their critics as well as a host of interesting and informed questions. Many also sheared my passion for Spanish wine – especially the fine wines that we tasted.

I often like to start a tasting with a Sparkling Wine – it just fits! Now, in Spain there are in fact lots of sparklers from which to choose – and they certainly aren’t all Cavas, as regular readers will know. However, I chose a lovely Cava, actually from Valencia, which is one of the locations outside of Cataluña, that is a permitted to make Cava. A Cava Valenciano also fitted my remit – to present wines that are made ‘locally’ as well as those from more fashionable areas.

Bodegas Domino de la Vega, from the Utiel-Requena area, whilst continuing to make good quality still DOP Utiel-Requena wines, now makes only Reserva Cavas. This is another reason why I chose a Cava to start the tasting – I’m on a mission to promote the different styles of Cava!

Expression Cava Brut Reserva has had a minimum of 15 months ‘en rima’, resting in bottle on its lees down in labyrinth-like underground cellars of Bodegas Dominio de la Vega. This time has added depth of flavour and extra complexity to this Macabeo based wine. It’s full in the mouth and able to take on various dishes as an accompaniment, without losing at all it’s raison d’etre, that fresh, clebration that we all love!

The first of two whites, is for me, the equal best white wine made under the auspices of DOP Valencia! Using the indigenous, little heard of, Verdil variety which has been fermented in oak, it also makes room in the blend for the: fuller, Chardonnay, the aromatic and clean Sauvignon, as well as one of my favourite varieties, Viognier.

Imagine the mix! It’s so fruity, a blend of pears, citrus, apricot, slightly under-ripe pineapple, gooseberry all bound together with a very slight vanilla and a whisp of smoke! Blanc d’Enguerra, from the eponymous Bodegas Enguerra – I love it!

Whilst DOP Rueda is quite rightly known for it’s Verdejo, that variety that has some of the aroma and taste profile of Sauvignon Blanc, there is also some very good Sauvignon made there too. One of my favourite Rueda bodegas is Palacio de Bornos and their Sauvignon Blanc 2015 is a vinous breath of fresh air!

Herbs, gooseberry, nettles and a faint aroma of asparagus are all there, along with a very slight aroma of peaches (as a very helpful lady pointed out), peach schnapps, for me. It is exactly what we want from a Sauvignon – super perfume, with racing acidity and a really thirst quenching, fruit filled flavour!

Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro, DOP Ribera del Duero, will be know to many readers – for their rich red wines, and if you’re lucky, their luxury hotel and spa! However, with such good grapes from old vines in well situated vineyards which enjoy their own micro-climates, it’s not a quantum leap to realise that they may also make top rosado wines too!

And they do! Rosae is in a rather sexy bottle, and the wine enhances that theme. It’s delicate and yet is full for a rosado. It’s elegant, and yet has power as well. You’ll find raspberries in abundance, with a faint reference to some bigger, black fruit.

I’ve written several times about Gran Caus rosado from Can Raffols, DO Penedés – which I believe to be the best rosé in Spain. Its colour almost startles when it is poured into your glass from an opaque bottle. And the Merlot, plum aromas start to slowly come out as the wine warms a little in the ambient temperature.

The dark bottle is deliberate, this rose defies the general rule that Spanish rosado has to be drunk young. We tasted the 2015, as young as it’s possible to be, of course, but this wine is built to last as well. Super rosé wine that will shock those who denounce our pink friend!

DOP Bullas is a rising star in the Spanish Wine firmament – and yet it has, for many decades, made wines of high quality. The reason it’s rising now is because people are cottoning-on and because the Consejo Regulador are focussing on promoting the jewels that are fashioned there!

Bodegas Monastrell makes top quality wine, based largely, but not exclusively, around the Monastrell variety (the clue is in the name!). Valché is their flagship wine, winning the Gold Medal in the DOP Bullas Competition last year (I know, because I was there – as Max Boyce would say!). Aged in French oak for 17 months the wine, at first gives a lovely smoked vanilla aroma, quickly followed by the essence of Monastrell, delightfully rich black plum aroma and flavour, with a sometimes quite illusive dark chocolate note too!

Our final dry red wine was also made with 100% Monstrell, this time from nearby DOP Yecla. The limited edition, top wine of Bodegas Castaño, Casa Cisca, at about 35€/bottle, sells out every year, with many cases going to the USA. It’s not flattery at all to say that this wine is one of my favourite Spanish red wines – excellent quality!

From the oldest vineyards, over 60 yrs of age, only the best small bunches are selected for this iconic wine. It’s aged in oak for 16 months but, judicially, so as to enhance the depth, the richness, the fragrance, the complexity and the flavour, without at all diminishing the glorious fruit. The epitome of top quality Monastrell wines!

Would it be too much Monastrell to use another for the final wine? Well, not at all, as Castaño’s Monastrell Dulce, although made with the same variety, is a whole different story. Rich dessert wine whose grapes were left to turn raison-like on the vines until November, it is aged for six months in American oak. Probably the best red dessert wine in Spain!

Try with summer pudding, dark berry and/or chocolate desserts, and for me the best pairing – blue cheese! Amazing!

PS My next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme on Total FM 91·8 www.totalfm.es is on Sunday 3rd March at 7pm Spanish Time. We’ll be tasting wines from Bodegas Castaño, DOP Yecla. Why not buy a bottle and ‘join’ us in the comfort of your own home?

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com Twitter @colinonwine Facebook Colin Harkness