Articles – Page 43 – Colin Harkness on Wine

Cava de Paraje Calificada!

CAVA DE PARAJE CALIFICADA – POR FIN!

AT LAST – THE NEW PRESTIGE CAVA DESIGNATION!

In the stunning setting of the Gaudi designed Palau de la Música Catalana, it wasn’t just the exquisitely played Bach that was music to my ears! The Cuarteto de cuerda de la Orquestra de Cambra del Penedés (the Cambra del Penedés Orchestra’s String Quartet) played Bach and Eduard Toldrá at the conclusion of the official inauguration of the new Prestige Single Estate Cava designation. It’s the official approval of this exciting innovation, that also brought music to my ears!

It’s been a long time coming!

Two years ago I was invited to the DO Cava HQ, where I met and interviewed the President of the Consejo Regulador DO Cava, Señor Per Bonet. Some readers may remember my subsequent article – if not you may like to find it here www.colinharknessonwine.com click Articles and scroll downwards, as it will give a little more background to today’s Cork Talk.

With Señor Bonet (again, it’s in the archives as above), I toured Bodegas Segura Viudas – a most fascinating and illuminating visit; enjoyed a sumptuous lunch paired with magnificent, perfectly chosen Cavas, of different styles; and of course had the opportunity to learn from the President, exactly where Cava was going, under his direction. As I left, the charming Sílvia Grimaldo Martinez, styled, Cava Manager, assured me that I would be kept informed re developments. As anticipated, Sílvia was as good as her word, and the moment the news broke about the planned change having finally been Governement approved, as discussed with Señor Bonet, she sent me an invitation to the rather grand (formal dress – in June, me!!) launch.

The Denomionación de Origen concept in Spain is designed to protect special food/drink producing areas, where tradition and excellence have been the hallmarks for many years. There are DOs for Cheese, Meats, Olive Oils and other foodstuffs, and of course there are DOs for wine. Establishing a DO is a lengthy operation, with many hours of research, reams of official reports, much canvassing, many meetings, a considerable financial input, and so on. Eventually, the application is made to the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture and, as is the way of Government, there is of course a time consuming process through which the application must travel.

You can therefore imagine that when the President opened the inauguration, it was with a real sense of relief that he said, in Spanish, something to the effect of, “Welcome, at last, to the launch of this new designation . . .”.

The logo, which you will soon start seeing on certain, special bottles of Cava, is cleverly designed – it says it all. As you can see from the photo, it’s a lower case ‘p’, where the rounded part is a ‘c’, back to front (standing for cava), leaning on the straight part, which in fact is the number 1. Essentially, the design is telling us that this is Cava at it’s absolute best, the top of the quality pyramid, the number one style of Cava.

So what does it all mean? Well, there weren’t just officials of the National Government present, nor just those of the Catalan Government, nor, indeed members of the Consejo Regulador, to explain the significance. There were two Masters of Wine (one, Spain’s only MW, Señor Pedro Ballesteros MW, via a phone link, from, I think London) and the also charming, Lenka Sedlackova MW, from the Czech Republic, who has only recently been elevated to this top echelon of wine experts, making her one of the newest MWs, and probably the youngest too!

Plus, Guillermo Cruz, Mejor Sumiller de España 2014, which is just one of his several awards, whom I also heard presenting a tasting at Alimentaria this year. And, making up the quorum on stage, Yvonne Heistermann, Champagne Ambassador of Germany, which again, is only one of her impressive titles!

All were in favour, with perhaps Guillermo being the most gung-ho, and Lenka, taking a more pragmatic standpoint, also adding some words of caution. The general consensus, amongst the panel members, the Government Officials, and indeed the whole assembly, was that this was a move in exactly the right direction. And, as you’ve probably gathered, I’m also very positive about it.

The idea came about as a response to some sustained criticism of a few years ago where producers within the DO, and commentators outside, expressed concerns about consumer perceptions of Cava. It’s been a long, and at times painful, story, which has been told before. However, DO Cava has responded to the complaints with an on-going and successful campaign to raise the international status of Cava.

A major ‘offensive’ where DO Cava is at pains to promote the concept of Premium Cava, which essentially means Reserva and Gran Reserva styles of Cava, and indeed how such sparkling wines can be paired perfectly well with the varied dishes served throughout a dinner, continues. Readers will remember the Cava Dinners that I presented, with this promotion in mind.

Now there is another strand – the concept of the Single Estate Cava, Cava de Paraje Calificada, which, as discussed, will be considered the very top level of Cava. Certain stringent rules will have to be satisfied before producers will be allowed to use the coveted title for some of their Cavas.

Firstly, of course, all the grapes will have to have come from a single vineyard, or indeed a single plot within a vineyard. The idea of this is that such plots will clearly have but a single soil type and micro-climate, therefore the resulting Cava will be representative of that terroir. This answers very nicely a criticism that has always been leveled at Cava, from those who are lovers of just Champagne. Now there will be a definite sense of place.

Also, the vines have to be a minimum of 10 years old, though most will be many years older. The older the vine, the fewer the bunches, but the better quality and richer the grapes. Yields will be strictly controlled. Also these superior grapes must all have been picked by hand and must undergo strict analysis in the bodega, with only the very best being selected to make the base wine, that eventually becomes sparkling Cava, after its second fermentation, provoked, of course in bottle.

As part of the quality control there will be a panel tasting of both the base wine and, following the second fermentation, a tasting of the Cava straight after disgorgement, with only those which tick both boxes being passed! Disgorgement, by the way, will only be allowed after a minimum of 36 months, that’s three years, ‘en rima’ – which will of course ensure depth and complexity in the finished article.

To conclude, I’ll leave it to the very grounded, ‘tell it like it is’, Lenka Sedlackova MW, who said that there is still a way to go in educating the buyers and through them the public about this niche market, but who also concurred that this impressively tightly defined new concept, Cava de Paraje Calificada, will elevate Cava to the same level as Prestige Champagne!

Well, after all that we needed some Cava, claro, and excellent tapas too! — Well, after all that, we needed some Cava, claro, and excellent tapas too!

The first bottles should be on the market by Christmas 2016 – I’ll let you know!

Colin’s next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme on Total FM 91·8 and www.totalfm.es will be on Sunday 26^th June from 18:30 – 20:00 hrs. Sponsored by DO Yecla and the Swiss Hotel Moraira.

NB Then, rather than the two week wait for the next programme, I’ll be on again on Sunday 3rd July, same time!

CAVAS VIA DE LA PLATA

The secret of the success of the Via de la Plata Cavas is in the vineyard and then the resulting base wines . . .

CAVAS VIA DE LA PLATA

DO CAVA, FROM EXTREMADURA!

Although the Via de la Plata (the Silver Route), which runs through Extremadura, taking pilgrims to Santiago de la Compostela, does eventually lead to the ancient metal mines in Northern Spain, the name does not in fact refer to Silver. Historians are undecided – the Roman school of thought suggests that the name is derived from either ‘platea’, meaning ‘wide road’; or ‘Lapidata’, meaning ‘stone road’.

The Arabic school believes the name came from the Arabic word ‘Balatta’, meaning, rather prosaically ‘road’. (Stick with me, you get history here too!).

However, for me ‘silver’ is closer, or rather ‘gold’ – liquid gold! I’m talking Cava here!

Perhaps readers remember a ‘Cork Talk’ of a couple of years ago, when I explained, to those who weren’t aware, that Cava is one of the few Denominaciónes de Origen that is not restricted to one geographical area? There are others, but none more famous than that of the prestigious sparkling wine of Spain, known as Cava!

One such area is about as far away from Cataluña, considered by many to be cava’s natural home, as can be – in Extremadura, the Comunidad adjacent to Portugal, whose capital is Badajoz, and where the fine wines of DO Ribera del Guadiana are also made. The cava making industry (though I don’t like this word, crafting cava is not industrial, it’s more of a labour of love!) is centred around Almendralejo.

The first bottle of Almendralejo Sparkling Wine was produced in 1983. Application to be approved as an official cava making area was accepted in 1985. They’ve never looked back since, though they’ve been perhaps a little shy about promoting these wines from DO Cava’s western outpost. Shy that is until Bodegas Via de la Plata decided to up the ante!

I was delighted to receive a selection of cavas from this bodega (whose sister bodega, Vino Vallarcal, also makes a range of still white wines – also received, and awaiting tasting for another Cork Talk soon!). It is clear to me that Cava is alive and kicking way out west and if you can find any (this has to be the next promotional step) – buy with confidence!

The secret of the success of the Via de la Plata Cavas is in the vineyard and then the resulting base wines. When considering cava we often overlook the efforts of the growers who spend so much of their time tending the plants that produce the grapes, year in and year out. We often tend to forget the importance of the base wines too.

Readers will know, of course, that most sparkling wine, certainly cava, is made by provoking a ‘second fermentation’ within the bottle. This, of course, presupposes that there has been a ‘first fermentation’. It is this initial fermentation, performed in the usual way, with grape juice, yeast and warmth, that produces what is known as ‘the base wine’ which is bottled and to which is added the second dose of yeast (and sugar)* to kick-start the process over again.

Thus, base wine can clearly be seen as a very important part of the process, just as with the work that goes on in the vineyard. You can’t make good wine without good grapes, and you can’t make good cava without good base wine. Simple!

Cava Via de la Plata harvests its grapes, then selects the best bunches with which to make their base wine. It is only the first 50% of the juice of the gentle pressing which is used for the base wines. This ‘free run juice’, as it’s known, is the best that the grapes can provide! So, following good work in the vineyards, the pursuit of excellence continues in the bodega.

The Liqueur d’Expedition* is then added and the magic bubbles start to appear!

So, that’s the background – now the results:

Let’s start with those tropical fruit notes – Via de La Plata Chardonnay Brut Nature is very dry with faint notes of slightly underripe pineapple and just a faint whiff of lychee. Along with typical bready notes (as expected from a sparkling wine) there is also an endearing nutty nose and flavour – instead of Sherry, why not try this with aperitifs of toasted almonds and walnuts? The bottles containing this wine have been left ‘en rima’ (almost vertical with the lees in the neck adding complexity and depth) for between 9 months (the minimum) and 25 months. The resulting Cava retains fresh acidity whilst being quite full too.

Via de la Plata Brut Coupage has a little residual sugar, pushing it towards the maximum grams per litre allowed for a Brut sparkler. Those who like the Brut style but sometimes find it a little too sharp will fall for this wine. Made with 70% Macabeo (which gives the aforementioned slight cider note) and 30% Parellada (providing some delicate floral notes and elegance too) the wine is a delight to drink.

It’s the same ‘coupage’, mix, of varieties that makes up the Brut Nature version of the above. It’s dry again, and some! I loved this wine with smoked salmon and creamed cheese tostadas, where the natural, fresh acidity and refreshing faintly saline quality was able to cut through the oily fish and meld with the slightly chalky cheese! The crunchy texture of the tostada heightened the finesse that can always be found when Parellada is in the blend.

Whilst I liked the whole range of Via de la Plata Cavas, my favourite was another Chardonnay based wine – the Chardonnay Reserva. Now here is a wine that embodies all that is so great about Sparkling Wine! Chardonay, a variety that produces quite full wines anyway, id given an even greater depth by the 32 months it has spent on its lees, en rima. At nearly 4 times the minimum ageing period this wine has great presence on the palate, and yet, magically, displays all the vivacity of youth.

It’s fresh and full, punchy and elegant – all at the same time, and is one of those Cavas that will also be enjoyed with dinner. Try it with chicken dishes and turkey, as well as with meaty fish. Really lovely!

Via de la Plata also does Pink! (Please go to www.colinharknessonwine.com Biography; Media, Scroll down to Youtube)

Finally, I have to say that the Via de la Plata Semi-Seco Cava is the best of this style that I have tasted! Yes, it’s semi-seco, but it’s quite far removed from the, for me, far too sweet cavas of this style that are all too often found – doing the semi-seco style a disservice, in my book,

Macabeo and Parellada combine again here and there’s a touch of toffee-apple sweetness to the wine. This can be paired with desserts where it would lighten the sweetness with its refreshing edge; and also with savoury South East Asian cuisine, where the flavours and aromas of the dishes would intermingle and the burning bite of any chilli would be lessened, leaving more flavour than heat.

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com www.colinharknessonwine.com @colinonwine Facebook Colin Harkness Youtube Colin Harkness On Wine.

Colin’s next radio programme on www.totalfm.es is on Sunday 26^th June, from 18:30 hrs – 20:00 hrs Total FM 91·8. On-air fine wine and gourmet food tasting, top music plus wine and food chat and news, and competitions too!

NB then the next radio programme will be just one week after – Sunday 3rd July!

Defending Cava after Alimentaria Speaker’s Attack!

I doubt very much that it was just me who started to feel uncomfortable quite early on in Mr. Stevenson’s introductory talk, where his criticism from an apparent lofty position began to feel patronizing!

IN DEFENCE OF CAVA

Regular readers (ahh, come on – there are some!) may remember a recent Cork Talk about my experiences at Alimentaria, the Wine & Food Fair in Barcelona (it’s archived here www.colinharknessonwine.com click Articles and scroll down). If so, you may remember my alluding to a Cava presentation which I attended, given by world renowned Champagne expert, Tom Stevenson.

Mr. Stevenson has written several books on Champagne and his opinions are as much sought after and lauded as indeed he is himself. He is also the founder of the Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships (CSWWC) which has now been in existence for I believe three, maybe four years. It is an impressive CV, to say the least!

So I was delighted to be able to wangle my way into the presentation – the Costa News Press Card is a powerful tool! It was a packed house with dignitaries from several of the famous and highly respected Cava Bodegas. Following a brief introduction we were to taste nine different Cavas, all of which were to be described by Mr. Stevenson. I was about to go on a learning curve!

And it’s true, to a point, but it wasn’t a wholly pleasant ride – for me, and I suspect several others present. I doubt very much that it was just me who started to feel uncomfortable quite early on in Mr. Stevenson’s introductory talk, where his criticism from an apparent lofty position began to feel patronizing!

His opening gambit was that Cava will never be taken seriously whilst it retains its several different geographical locations. Cava can be made in, I believe, ten different areas of Spain. It’s a historical and quasi-political matter. Most Cava is made in what many would consider its natural home, Cataluña. However, when the idea of creating a Denominación de Origen Cava was first mooted in the late 50s there were other areas of Spain where sparkling wine was being made, using the same traditional grape varieties and same methods.

Understandably, such areas didn’t want to be left out when DO status was applied for, and indeed granted, in 1959 – it was an opportunity to have their sparkling wines recognized as well. The Ministery of Agriculture of the day considered the application and decided to accept that Cava could be made in different zones of Spain – provided all areas adhered to the same rules.

Mr. Stevenson told us several times that he had tasted 180+ cavas over the two days before his keynote talk, but when I asked him he’d tasted any from outside Cataluña, he agreed that he hadn’t. I wondered, therefore, if he was correct to indirectly criticize (by default) those from other areas, when in fact he hadn’t tasted any. (This I feel is an error of the Consejo Regulador DO Cava, for failing to supply him with any).

I also thought his comment was wrong anyway. Cava is most certainly taken seriously outside of Spain, as well as inside too, of course. And I’m talking about Premium Cava, here, the finest quality and relatively expensive, though not relative to Champagne – and it’s here where the problem arises I think.

Let’s firstly take the notion of Premium Cava. Mr. Stevenson pooh-poohed the idea that styling these top end cavas as Premium Cava, would make a difference to the, in his view, general public’s perception (I presume that he meant the UK public?) that Cava was just cheap bubbles. He went as far as saying that the Consejo Regulador would need to do better than that if they were hoping to change this mindset.

It is of course true that there is a huge production of cheap, thin and quite nasty cava, and it is to this that he must be referring. However, the same can be said of Rioja wines, Bordeaux et cetera – not all wineries strive to make the very best, quantity and sales are the sole goals here. So, DO Cava, is trying hard to persuade people that Premium Cavas are the way to go, with various presentations and tastings all over the world, which are converting into increasing sales as well as greater awareness. There will always be cheap Rioja, cheap Cava et al, which is not at all representative of what can be, and is being, produced.

Plus, from my fairly recent visit to Champagne it was admitted to me and the Press Group with whom I visited, one of the reasons why Champagne is considered such a Prestigious Premium Product is because the price of the grapes and the resulting sparkling wine is deliberately kept inflated. Something that simply doesn’t happen with Cava.

Mr. Stevenson was also dismissive of the new, and just this week approved, designation, Cava de Paraje Calificado, which readers may remember my discussing in a Cork Talk two years ago. Here, there is a desire to recognize special parcelas/fincas, vineyard/vineyard sites, which have unique terroir which allows them to produce some of the very best Cavas, cavas that will rank, in quality, all be it totally different, with the best from, it seems, Mr. Stevenson’s natural home, Champagne.

And herein, I think, is the nub of my objection to part of Mr. Stevenson’s presentation – he seems to be basing his criticism of Cava on the Champagne Model, regardless of the fact that the new designation will have similarities to the Champagne area where villages are allowed to portray their name on their labels, as it distinguishes their terroir, and their Champagne, from others’.

Mr. Stevenson’s heart is clearly in Champagne where his love of the famous fizz is backed up by exceedingly impressive knowledge of the science of Champagne making and the attendant statistics. Whilst I’m dazzled by his vast knowledge and understanding of the process of making Sparkling Wine by the traditional method, as well as by other methods, when it comes to Cava, he doesn’t understand its tradition or its soul.

His statement that cava needs a ‘sexy black grape variety’ is risible. When I asked if he’d tried an excellent, in my view, Blanc de Noir sparkling wine from Utiel-Requena made with the black grape, Bobal (it’s not cava as Bobal isn’t a permitted variety, though it is the same in all other respects, and made by a bodega that does make cava), he shot me down with, ‘I’d hardly call Bobal, sexy’. (After the presentation another delegate, agreed with me about this sparkler).

I also objected to his insensitive and dreadfully dismissive, cavalier comment that, when his slide depicted a bottle of Raventos i Blanc with the caption referring to it as cava (it’s not, any longer, as this influential producer abandoned the DO a couple of years ago, frustrated at its intransigence in making changes to its rules, something which it is now clearly addressing), he didn’t know who he’d pi . . ed off more, DO Cava or Raventos i Blanc!

And finally, Mr. Stevenson’s apparent lack of understanding of the Spanish Wine scene was highlighted when he criticised a pale styled rosé cava as not being ‘the colour of a Spanish Rosado’. Those of who live here know that nowadays in Spain you can find all the colours within the rosé pink spectrum, from the Provençal pale to the dark, wannabe reds!

For me, quality Cava rocks, just as it is, thank you very much!

My next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme on 91.8 FM & online at www.totalfm.es will be on Sunday 12^th June, from 18:30 – 20:00 hrs, Spanish Time. Why not join me for wine and food fun, news, great music and wine/food prize competitions too!

As the wine is being poured you can almost feel its rich opulence!

WHEN IN EXTREMADURA, DO AS THE ROMANS DID

I’m sure that Saint Ambrose, one of the four original Doctors of the Church (everybody knows that, right?), wouldn’t mind my misquoting his famous saying. Whilst as a Christian of the 4^th Century living in Milan, he would have abhorred the drunken excesses of the Roman Orgies that had gone before him, he would nevertheless surely have supped a cup on Sundays. Wine was a part of the Sacrament, and therefore an integral part of Church lore.

Ok, it’s a little obscure, I admit – but let me enlighten you. I’m talking amphorae, here! As you’ll no doubt know, the Romans made, kept (when it wasn’t orgy season, of course) and transported their wines in earthenware pots – amphorae. (My Greek friend Thannasis (whom I met at IWINETC 2016 – see recent article www.colinharknessonwine.com click Articles) tells me they are a Greek invention, but then he tells me everything came from Greece originally, including most words in the English language – allegedly!).

If you are having difficulty picturing amphorae, and are of a certain age, and probably male – then think back to, was it the Dandy or the Beano, comics of our youth. Remember Ali Baba and the forty thieves? Well, that’s what they used to hide inside! Clay pots for hiding treasure as well as food, olive oil and of course wine.

Occasionally these days ancient amphorae are found at the bottom of the ocean, perhaps miles away from where their ships sank whilst sailing the trade routes. Be it Phoenicians, Greeks or Romans amphorae were de rigeur in the win e world of the time.

Now fast forward to Extremadura in the 21^st Century, and specifically to Bodega Pago de Domblasco (http://www.domblasco.com/) and, remarkably, you’ll see the same thing. Large amphorae that have seen more than 100 vintages are being used to ferment and age wines – to this day. And to excellent effect!

Now, a little, more modern, background – I came across these, and other, wines by virtue of a chance meeting with my now friend and colleague, Yolanda Hidalgo, when she and I shared a judging table in the year’s DOP Bullas Annual Wine Competition.

Apart from being a wine judge, Yolanda is also a wine-maker in her own right, as well consulting on various wine-making projects in several different parts of Spain, ad in Portugal. She has an interesting life, and clearly knows her wines. (http://www.ydalgoenologia.com/ and http://vinovidavicio.blogspot.com.es/).

We chatted and she told me about her wines in Extremadura, and also in the Province of Cádiz – well it would have been rude not to ask for a couple of samples!

I was both delighted and enchanted with the amphorae wines from Extremadura. The first I tasted was the silver medal winning Domblasco Garnacha, whose distinctive label and impressive bottle shape makes it stand out, before you taste the contents! Then when the cork is removed and the, initially shy aromas, start to escape genie-like (nostalgia’s not what it used to be, I’m back on the comics again) from the bottle neck, you’ll quickly realise that the flattery is not to deceive!

As the wine is being poured you can almost feel its rich opulence! In the glass it’s a dark red promising certain, captivating seduction – which is delivered on the palate. It’s full and juicy with very dark cherry aroma and even more so, flavour. There are stewed damsons in there too with a little herby and mineral note, reminding the taster of the terroir from whence it comes.

If this is typical of red wine made in Exremadura, fermented and aged in amphorae – then give me more, please!

The shame shaped bottle and label, though different colour, contains the second wine from this old bodega, a wine that this time has had some extra ageing. Whilst the fruit is still present, this is a more mature wine, elegant, structured and with some thought provoking complexity.

Garnacha, Mazuelo and Petit Verdot make up the blend in Sueño de Facio and the wine has clearly enjoyed it’s 8 months in amphorae, as well as 6 months in a mixture of French and American oak, plus a further year and a half in bottle before its release.

This is a wine to grace the dinner table. It’s full and rich enough to pair with all manner of meats, including game, and will also be excellent with cheese, semi-curado and curado. There’s a little bay leaf on the nose plus a very faint hint of rosemary as well as some earthy mineral notes.

Fruit wise, look for plum and blueberry and, perhaps more so, brambly blackberry notes, which again make it quite a fruit packed wine. As I said – give me more!

Yolanda’s other project at Bodegas Páez Morilla http://www.bodegaspaezmorilla.com/), is near to Jerez de la Frontera, home of the Palomino, Sherry, grape variety – so it’s not surprising that Palomino figures in the white wine she makes there. Also unsurprising is that another variety in the blend that makes up her Tierra Blanca (named after the almost white appearance of the soils in the area) dry white wine, is Moscatel – which, along with Pedro Ximenth (usually shortened to PX), is responsible for the luscious dessert sherry of the area, though in this case it’s vinified dry.

However, like myself, I’m sure you would be surprised to know that the third variety of this triumvirate – is Riesling! Yes, Riesling, the star of Alsace and Germany, where there is altitude, rainfall and freezing temperatures, all of which are notably absent from Cádiz!

This wine is a fresh and dry white, super refreshing to sip on the dusty dry days of an Andalusian summer.

I’m occasionally accused, quite rightly, I have to admit, of hardly ever writing about the semi-dulce style wines of Spain, wines that are not made as dessert wines, but wines with a sweetness for those who find dry wines to be too austere. Well Yolanda’s Tierra Blanca may well be the answer for my critics. Made with the same grape varieties, but with the final addition of some Moscatel juice to up the ante regarding its final sugar per litre count.

This bodega also makes a young red wine, Selección Don Antonio, made with Syrah, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. For me, it was the best of the three, with good juicy fruit, some mature tannin, for a young wine and a good finish. It’s had just a few months in French oak to make it a little more serious. Easy drinking, but good for rice dishes, tapas and meat too.

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and Twitter @colinonwine & Facebook Colin Harkness and please visit his unique website www.colinharknessonwine.com

Colin’s next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme is on Sunday 12th June from 18:30 hrs – 20:00 hrs on Total FM 91·8 and online www.totalfm.es.