Category: Articles

First Published Costa News Group, July 2012, Parés Baltà Red Wines

BODEGAS PARÉS BALTÀ

THE REDS

Readers may remember a lengthy article about the cavas and white wines of the DO Penedès based winery Bodegas Parés Baltà. This family owned bodega whose original vineyards were planted as far back as 1790 has of course established a fine name for itself regarding its cava production. Indeed I’ve been njoying Parés Baltà cavas, which manage to successfully blend tradition with modern methods, since my arrival in Spain fifteen years ago.

I confess, though, that I knew little about their still wine production. Well the erudite and elegant Anna, Nottingham born and Liverpool Uni educated, who had not only mastered Castellano but also Catalan, guided me through (in good Northern English!) the white wine portfolio on a memorable day in March during Barcelona’s biennial Alimentaria wine fair.

But that wasn’t all. A few weeks later I received a raft of red wines which I have recently tasted and I have to say the prognosis is good, very good, for this leading Penedès bodega. Typically the red wines manage to combine elegance with depth of flavour and invariably have an abundance of fruit along with pleasing minerality, which is of course part testament to their uncompromising organic approach.

Indeed this forward thinking and very responsibly minded bodega is at this very moment testing some biodynamic practises which will bear fruit perhaps in the coming year. Watch this space!

Indigena 2010 Garnacha (though spelt Garnatxa in Catalan on the label) weighs in at 14%, but it is surprisingly light on the palate with crisp early ripened plum notes with some cherry too. It comes in what used to be called a Burgundy bottle, downwards more bulbous from a sloping neck than the straight up and down Bordeaux style bottle. This style lends an air of seriousness to the rather trendy purple foil and lettering on the labels, fore and aft. A wine, I think, designed like the label, for the younger consumer who doesn’t want to be short-changed on flavour and quality but does require an element of cool.

The wine delivers on both fronts – on the palate it’s fresh with good fruit notes, a closed nose initially but one that develops and opens out in the glass. Its high alcohol content would allow it to age and it’s noticeable acidity and tannin levels will aid and abet, but that’s not really the point of this wine. It’s vivacious and ready to drink now and for another couple of years.

Mas Elena 2009 has a similarly trendy label though this time the very small orange/red lettering doesn’t really work as it’s really too busy and therefore very difficult to read. However don’t be put off the wine. Made with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon it’s a fine example of how Parés Baltà likes also to use ‘foreign’ grape varieties – to great effect.

These French, in fact very Bordeaux, varieties have adapted excellently to Penedés soils and Spanish sunshine. Mas Elena demonstrates how minerality is a feature of wines from this bodega, all of whose wines are Organic.

Mas Petit 2009 is made with Garnacha and Cabernet and at 13·5% it’s a relatively lightweight wine, the other reds all scoring 14+%, however on the palate the slight difference is hardly noticeable. It has lovely bold blackcurrant and plum notes and is rich in flavour, and aroma, after it has spent as few minutes in the glass.

The minimalist front label of Hisenda Miret 2008 Garnacha is in contrast to the intense aromas and flavours of this full bodied (14·5%) floral and wild dark fruit scented wine. A wine for enjoying long after you have swallowed. It has well integrated oak in a fruit driven style.

Mas Irene 2006 is made with Cabernet Franc and Merlot and has been aged in French oak. It’s from a limited production which will mean that is difficult to obtain, though you really should try! It’s a very rich wine and yet subtle too, despite its 14·5% alcohol. After five years in bottle resting in the perfect atmosphere of the Parés Baltà cellars is took a little time to open out on the nose, though the intensity of flavour was there straight away.

Bottle number 1,634 of Marta Baltà 2006 was one of only 3,856 bottles produced of this wine for that vintage. Limited production, or what! Like the Mas Irene above it is a wine that is not produced every year and comes from individual vineyards whose micro-climates give the wines an enviable singularity including an abundance of fruit combined with mineral notes from its soils and subtle use of French oak.

Marta Baltà is made with 100% Syrah and really is an exemplary wine from Spanish Syrah, where these French in origin grapes have the chance to ripen fully under Spanish sunshine. There are spicy, peppery notes along with some blackberry fruit and a touch of black olive on the nose combining floral notes too.

Finally Absis 2005 sees the first appearance of Tempranillo in the blend with Syrah again, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a wonderfully dark coloured wine, sultry in the glass, with aromas of black cherries and blackcurrant jam (with a whiff of same but with a tiny splash of whisky or brandy in it too!). Again it has the customary minerality and a great length ensuring double the pleasure from this, another limited production wine. Complexity, richness, depth and elegance in equal measure!

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and through his unique wine services website: www.colinharknessonwine.com

First Published Costa News Group, July 2012

A TASTY, TIMELY REMINDER!

EMINA ZER0.0, ALCOHOL-FREE WINES

As I understand it the Guardia Civil is starting a purge on drivers driving under the influence from early July, I believe until towards the end of September, though I’m not certain of the dates. In fact, the campaign is, I think, focussing on driving under the influence of drugs. Drivers will be pulled over, for no apparent reason, and asked to take a saliva test, which should determine if they have been using any unlawful drugs. I’m sure we all approve.

Of course it doesn’t require a great deal of lateral thinking to realise that once a car is stopped, with a view to testing for drug abuse, the observant officer will notice any whiff of alcohol as well. Thus it can be said that the purge is indeed focussing on drivers being under the influence – be it drugs and/or alcohol.

Actually, whilst on my way to a School Prize Day recently, I was pulled over, initially, but then waived on with a polite ‘Gracias, puede continuar, Señor.’. A few younger male drivers were detained longer, I noticed, as I gratefully and quite rightly, as I certainly was not under any influence, did as the officer said. My guess is that the jovenes had in fact been stopped for the reason above and that therefore the purge has started early. So I think it’s apt that I give you a timely, but tasty reminder that we should all be drinking responsibly.

There is a huge wine orientated group in Spain that can count many bodegas in its ranks – Grupo Matarromera. Readers may remember the Vintae White Wine Guerillas; Emina Wines and several other wines and bodegas from a number of different producing areas. Well they are all part of the group.

And Emina can boast the first wholly alcohol free wines in Spain, we are talking 0·0  abv here! Of course the above is a very good reason for the drivers amongst us to be partaking of such wines only – and there is a large range from which to choose, so there’s really no excuse. Except, perhaps availability?

I’ve now showcased two of the Emina Zer0.0 wines on Bay Radio during the monthly wine/food pairings part of Bob and Noelle’s Sunday Brunch Programme (next one – Sunday 8th July, 12:00 – 13:00 hrs, www.bayradio.fm click Listen Live) and each time the studio has received several requests from listeners asker  where these wines can be found. Unfortunately I’m still in the dark – but I have referred people to the website www.matarromerashop.com where they will of course be available.

It’s clear there is a demand for such wines and there should be one that suits everybody as they list White, Rosado, Red and Cava-style Sparkling wines, plus white, rosado and red in small handy cans which have had some carbonated mineral water added to make them a very refreshing and easily transportable addition to the cool-box for the beach, picnics etc!

But of course it’s not only the drivers who may have the need of alcohol-free wines. Although I read recently that there is a medical school of thought that believes small amounts of alcohol during pregnancy will not be detrimental to the unborn baby, I’m sure all mothers-to-be will avoid it. So the idea of pleasant tasting alcohol-free wines and sparklers will be something of a godsend for new mothers who like to join friends in bars and at each other’s homes and still feel part of the party mood.

Similarly there are many who for medical reasons must abstain from all alcohol, be it just in the short term, or longer and sometimes permanently. Again such sufferers can suffer a little less now that they can be included, drinking from a regular wine and/or cava bottle.

And of course the same applies to those whose religious convictions don’t allow them alcohol as well as those who simply don’t like the taste of alcohol laced drinks! Manna from heaven!

However the key phrase here is, ‘pleasant tasting’. I remember my two restaurants in the UK where I prided myself on the wine list – apart that is from the two non-alcohol wines which were there for the reasons above but which were, for me undrinkable, although they sere a couple of the best available at the time! Well don’t worry Emina Zer0.0 wines are many cuts above the lowly level of the 90s.

Emina Zer0.0 Red is made from 100% Tempranillo grapes which were fermented in the usual way then once wine, the alcohol was taken out by centrifugal force. On the first hit you’d easily be fooled into thinking that it was regular, light drinking red wine. It’s had some oak ageing too, which does add a little depth. It was a hit at Bay Radio!

I have a glass of Emina Zer0.0 white in front of me now. Straw tones with gleaming lime notes make it most attractive in the glass. On the nose there are whiffs of Verdejo characteristics, some vegetal notes with gooseberry fruit, some citrus and herbs. In the mouth it’s refreshingly light and I found that it was best when drunk as many of us do, without using traditional tasting methods – just drink in quite large sips – lovely, as our 7-year-old said!

The Rosado is also made with Tempranillo but with the addition of Verdejo, in fact from wines made in the DO Cigales area, close to Verdejo’s spiritual home in DO Rueda. A very pretty colour in the glass, perhaps similar to a new young mother’s blush as she tells her parents-in-law that she has just found out she’s pregnant. I’m such a romantic, don’t you think?!

The sparkling Emina Zer.00 of course comes in a traditional cava bottle and also enjoys the celebratory pop and whoosh as the cork is extracted – a perfect way to celebrate the news! It’s made with Verdejo too and is an interesting variation on cavas made with the traditional grape varieties and on other sparklers made with different varieties.

All three cans of Zero with carbonated water were also enjoyed, one most refreshingly on the beach in fact.

So there you have it – a good time, enjoying a glass or two of wine, but without the alcohol!

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com ; plus if you are looking for a wine tasting and/or a bodega visit please go to www.colinharknessonwine.com

First Published Costa News Group, June 2012

BODEGAS PIQUERAS, DO ALMANSA

PART TWO -THE WINES

Last week I believe I introduced many of you to Bodegas Piquera, and indeed to the Denominación de Origen Almansa under whose auspices they make their economically priced, flavour-filled wines. DO Almansa is not a Spanish area of wine production that immediately comes to mind and yet, if you know what to buy you can find some exceptional value for money.

Although Bodegas Piqueras’ White, Castillo de Almansa Colección 2011, made with Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc is a fresh, light and clean wine which displays varietal characterisitics; and their refreshing Rosado, Castillo de Almansa, has some rosehip aromas with a touch of Syrah spice on the palate, for me their real strength is in their red wines.

I tasted two lines – the Valcanto portfolio, attractively bottled and labelled, which concentrates on mono-varietal wines and which I guess is selling like hot cakes in emerging Asian markets; and the Castillo de Almansa which often blends different indigenous varieties with adaptable ‘foreigners’. For me both ranges are successful, the more so when you learn the extremely approachable prices!

Valcanto Syrah 2010 has a touch of integrated oak. It’s juicy and rounded with sweet tannins and no trace of harshness. It’s fruit driven with a touch of spice and black olive and I thought it a good pairing for the BBQ Beef recipe on Bay Radio’s monthly wine/food pairing show. (www.bayradio.fm Listen Live Sunday Brunch Programme).

Valcanto Monastrell 2010 was also fruit orientated, but perhaps a touch more serious! A deeply coloured grown-up wine with a sturdy backbone of tannin and acidity which is in balance with some damson and fig notes and slightly more noticeable oak. A wine for the dining table.

Castillo de Almansa Colección 2011 is in fact a single-varietal showcasing the enigmatic Garnacha Tintorera, the variety with the almost unique pink coloured flesh, which makes rich and deeply coloured wines. This is a young wine whose super purple colour attracts the eye. There are wild berry flavours, sweet tannin and a faint minerality. It’s big on fruit but with balancing acidity which, linked also with its 14% alcohol will help it age for a few years too. A pleasing light bitterness on the finish makes it a good food wine too.

The Crianza 2009 (Monastrell, Garnacha Tintorera and Cabernet) from the same range delighted my tasting partner particularly with its good fruit presence and extra oak-inspired depth. For me Crfianza wines these days are only built to last for about five years, this one may exceed that by a year and will I think be drinking at its best in twelve months time.

The Reserva 2008 (Tempranillo, Monastrell and Garnacha Tintorera) is drinking perfectly right now. I’m sure that the grapes harvested for this wine were at their ripest when it made it from the furnace-like heat of the vineyard into the cool sanctuary of the bodega. There’s a touch of burnt wood on the nose and palate which integrates well with the forward fruit. It’s rounded with some pleasing mid-palate depth and a fruit laden, very slight bitter chocolate finish.

The final wine I tasted was the oldest, the Colección 2007, whose initial up front fruit fades a little after the first mouth hit, only to return on the finish with tannin and acidity and a slight oak effect. Another food wine that will not disappoint.

There are two further lines that I hope to be able to try in the future as I have enjoyed these wines which exemplify modern Almansa. Bodegas Piqueras will no doubt continue to fly the flag for the DO and indeed for Spanish wines in general, representing as they do, very good value for money in these dark financial times!

If you cannot find these wines, which is likely as the vast majority are sold abroad, you can order from the winery – go to www.bodegaspiqueras.es and check out prices and delivery terms.

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and through his unique wine services website: www.colinharknessonwine.com

First Published Costa News Group June 2012

BODEGAS PIQUERAS

DO ALMANSA

Denominación de Origen Almansa – heard of it?! Tasted any of their wines? Some readers will be able to answer ‘Yes’ to both questions, no doubt, but I guess that there will be many who have a quizzical expression right now! DO where? Al who?

Well it’s not surprising that many of us know little about this relatively small area of production, geographically placed between Alicante and Albacete. There are just five bodegas featured in the tiny section allotted to DO Almansa in Spain’s most famous wine guide, Guía Peñin, compared with over thirty in nearby DO Alicante.

Add to this the fact that, of the overall production of DO Almansa wine, only 25% is sold in Spain, and it becomes clear why it is that many of us have not tasted offerings from this, one of the harshest wine growing climates in Spain. However, as regular Cork Talk readers will know, it is often such climates, also with soils dramatically lacking in organic matter, that can, in the hands of dedicated, forward thinking winemakers, produce some really good wines.

Witness again the Peñin Guide whose top Almansa wines have gained an outstanding 92 points in this year’s edition. However, the family owned Bodegas Piqueras, subject of this and next week’s Cork Talk, is not the bodega that makes these high pointers. Why? Well, largely because they preferred not to send their wines to Peñin – if you’re not in it, you can’t win it?

Or can you? Well, it seems that Bodegas Piqueras is doing very nicely without the Peñin Guide thank you! A remarkable 95% of the wines from this, the largest and longest established winery in DO Almansa, are sold in a thriving and expanding export market which counts 25+ countries where its wines are proudly sold.

For example, my contact at the winery, Pieter Whaley, the Export Director, sent answers to my seemingly unending queries (poor guy!) from countries as far apart as, South Korea, mostly in Seoul; and the USA, including stops in Atlanta, Chicago and New York!

The bodega was founded in 1915 by Mario Bonete, father of the current Manager and Head winemaker, Juan Pablo Bonete. Piqueras wines in those days were sold firstly to a slowly expanding local customer base, but also, from the 50s, in bulk to other wine producing areas of Spain, for example Rioja, which didn’t enjoy such consistent grape ripening sunshine.

Nowadays this is completely out of the question – illegal in fact and anathema to those who have sought, and succeeded, in tying the hands of winemakers with red tape rules that, I believe, at times suffocate innovation. But that’s another gripe for a future Cork Talk!

One advantage of the DO system is that it has ensured the survival of indigenous grape varieties so that we are not all drowning in oceans of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The ABC Club (Anything But Cabernet/Chardonnay) has been a powerful pressure group, with which, in this case I have some sympathy.

The indigenous varieties championed of DO Almansa, for red wines, are: Monastrell – a favourite of mine, and also grown with considerable success in nearby Jumilla and Yecla, as well as Valencia; and the enigmatic Garnacha Tintorera – note the last word. This is not Garnacha, as we know it Jim. A different variety and one of the very few in the world whose flesh has a pink hue to it giving rise, after skin and juice maceration, to some gloriously deeply coloured red wines.

Deeply flavoured too! Garnacha Tintorera, which I first came across in DO Alicante, has a rich damson flavour laced with some blackcurrant aromas too. In the correct soils it can develop a pleasing minerality as well. And, those wines that are well made have a long finish, and in the case of Almansa, where temperatures are extremely high with many long sunshine hours, high alcohol levels also develop. But at 700 meters above sea level, with considerable differences between day and night time temperatures, careful winemakers can also produce wines with enough acidity to match the high alcohol and therefore wines with elegance also.

Bodegas Piqueras is a leading light of the DO and when I received a raft of their wines recently I took my time tasting them to see how the area has developed from the disappointing, dusty and over extracted wines that I tasted a decade and more ago. I’m delighted to say that there has been considerable progress and when this is linked with exceptional value for money, as it is with this particular bodega – well the future looks rosy. Rather like the flesh of their darling variety Garnacha Tintorera!

Next week the full SP!

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.co and through his unique wine services website: www.colinharknessonwine.com