Articles – Page 70 – Colin Harkness on Wine

www.thewineplace.es

A NEW WINE CLUB SPECIALISING IN INTERNATIONAL WINES!

Considering that approximately 95% of the approaching one million words that I’ve written about wine in Cork Talk over the sixteen+ years I’ve been writing the column has been specifically about Spanish wine, I don’t think that I’m turning traitor by writing, this week, about imported wines! I hope you agree.

Indeed it wouldn’t surprise me at all if you like to occasionally step off the Spanish piste and taste some wines from different countries, as indeed I do. Please, don’t misunderstand me – my love affair with Spanish wines continues. There is such a wealth of super wine made in this country that it almost seems greedy to try wines from other countries too.

But it’s nice to see what the opposition are up to sometimes! And yes, of course, there are excellent wines being made all over the world. The problem is that, if resident in Spain, one rarely has the opportunity to taste them here. Spain, essentially just doesn’t do ‘foreign’ wines!

Yes, it’s true that some wines from different countries can be found here, but I’m not always sure they are so well chosen and also, given that sales are relatively slow, I’m not sure either if the international wines we are able to buy are in their best condition, and are truly representative. I’m also a little worried about the prices of these wines!

Well no worries – there is now a new Wine Club established in Valencia city with the ability to deliver all over the Valencia Community, and beyond, to satisfy a need which is common to many of us. www.thewineplace.es, having being started simply by a group of friends who craved some international wines, is spreading its wings!

It’s founder, Mark O’Neill, is actually in the wine business, here in Spain. His company, Verde Marte SL, is involved in various wine making projects all over Spain (more on this interesting company in another Cork Talk!). Mark and his friends therefore have access to many Spanish wines but, like ourselves, they also crave some international variety.

Their initial thoughts, no doubt over a glass or two of wine, developed into a hobby idea where they sourced wines from different countries for their own consumption. Without realising it, initially, this was a nascent wine business in embryonic form. No doubt over more glasses of wine, this time internationally produced, the idea took shape, morphing into a new and exciting Wine Club www.thewineplace.es.

Following my article on fellow Irishman, Kevin McAlindon, Caballero del Vino, Mark called me to ask if I was interested in hearing about his fledgling business. Of course I was as I knew it would be of interest to Cork Talk readers too, for the above reasons!

Mark heads a team of four, all of whom have a passion for wine as well as qualifications, experience and expertise. Their contacts in the wine world provide them with plenty of opportunity to source quality (they only deal in quality wines) from all parts of the globe. To give an example their current, Autumn, selection includes wines from countries as diverse as: France (including Champagne), Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Italy, Germany, South Africa and Argentina!

What’s more, the above selection includes classic grape varieties known to, and loved by, us all, but also some varieties that are perhaps less well known, and certainly less available here in Spain – Cinsault, Malbec, Pinot Gris, Viognier and Riesling, for example!

And how does it work? Well there is a quarterly selection of a dozen wines – above gives some detail of the Autumn selection, and of course there’ll be a Winter Selection available soon, if not already. Each selection is comprised of different wines of course, so over a year’s membership you are sure to have tasted a considerable number of different countries’ wines, different grape varieties and blends as well as different styles of wine. Sounds great doesn’t it!

And if you read Cork Talk next week you’ll see just how good the wines are too. I tasted three of the Autumn Selection and was delighted – read my comments next week!

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and www.colinharknessonwine.com and also via Twitter @colinonwine

DO Rueda Bodegas Diez Siglos, Costa News Oct. 2013

THE RISE, AND RISE OF THE RUEDA EMPIRE

EXEMPLIFIED BY THE WINES OF BODEGAS DIEZ SIGLOS

I read a startling statistic recently (from Spain’s best wine magazine, PlanetAVino) – apparently one in every three bottles of Spanish wine sold in Spain is from DO Rueda! And there’s more: in 1990 there were 4·5 million bottles of Rueda wine sold, a quite impressive figure, though it pales almost into insignificance when compared with last year’s sales of over 63 million!

Rueda can also boast that it is placed third in Spain for the largest number of bottles sold (behind Rioja and Ribera del Duero); and that in the hotel/restaurant trade it is only Rioja which enjoys better sales. The Rueda empire continues to rise, with analysts predicting a further double figure percentage increment in sales of the present 2013 vintage.

Also, when set against a background of the dreadful recession we have all been suffering for years now, this Spanish success story is even more impressive. So just why is Rueda wine doing so well, and what precipitated such a change in fortunes?

The principle grape variety of the region is Verdejo, a variety which is prone to early oxidation. The majority of wines made in the area suffered because of this problem. However help was at hand, in terms of major advancement in wine-making technology, a change of vineyard husbandry and wine-making method and, of course, considerable investment.

During the mid – late ’90s enterprising bodegas began to harvest their grapes in small 16kg baskets during the hours of darkness and to quickly transport them to cool temperature controlled bodegas (often by means of refrigerated trucks), thus hugely reducing the risk of early, uncontrolled fermentation.

Once in the bodegas they were left to cool completely before being placed in fermentation vats where all the oxygen was displaced by an inert gas that was pumped in – radically reducing any risk of early oxidation. Bottling, and in some cases, transfer into oak casks was achieved again without the presence of oxygen.

Suddenly the locals had to adapt to a whole new brew game and the rest of the wine world began to ‘discover’ a variety that had been around for centuries!

Bodegas Diez Siglos (named in honour of those who, over the centuries, like themselves, have been dedicated to preserving this gem of a variety) is a producer whose wines are exemplary if you’re trying to discover the secret of the success of the DO. I was sent two from their small portfolio of wines and I can recommend them to you!

Nékora 2012 is made from 100% Verdejo and is inexpensively priced – a super wine for your fridge to be brought out when friends visit. You’ll find that on opening, perhaps in the kitchen, the gooseberry and fennel loaded aromas will soon have your guests sniffing the air on the pool-side terrace!

This wine is brim full of fruit nuance as well as grassy and aniseed notes. It’s light on the palate and although fruit driven from the start there’s an elegance about the wine too. It has the body for a medium length finish and I’ll guarantee you’ll soon reach for the bottle for another glass.

You can pair it with salads and Asian food as well as fish and seafood and if cooking lemon chicken for example, you have to have this wine!

Diez Siglos 100% Verdejo 2012 is a more grown-up wine. There’s a subtlety about the wine which might initially make you think of a fine Sancerre and then maybe one of the original Cloudy Bay Sauvignons from New Zealand. However, hold it on your palate and you’ll find it gives you more. You might think it has been fermented in oak and/or had perhaps a month in maybe a third year oak barrel because of its depth, but like me, you’d be wrong!

It’s full on the palate with herbs, a touch of asparagus, some ripe kiwi fruit and gooseberry of course, with fennel and with a whiff of white rose petals too. It has a long finish and really is super dry white wine for aperitif drinking and with fish, seafood, Thai and Indonesian cuisine and, hey, just for the sheer pleasure!

With so many Reuda wines on the market now, it’s good to know a name to look out for and I don’t hesitate in recommending the full range of Bodegas Diez Siglos.

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and through www.colinharknessonwine.com and Twitter @colinonwine

Bodega Visit and Tasting with Lunch November 14th 2013

Next event is the super Cava and Wine Tasting at Bodegas Dominio de la Vega, DO Cava and DO Utiel-Requena, 14th November. Really looking forward to it! If you are interested there may be places left so please contact me asap! Please e-mail colin@colinharknessonwine.com or DM me on Twitter @colinonwine

See you soon?!

La Gran Cata en la Montaña Part One

Judging by the comments made during a most pleasant afternoon in early September, it seemed that I had been correct to be unconcerned about the standard of the five wines we tasted.

LA GRAN CATA EN LA MONTAÑA 11

ANNUAL, EXCLUSIVE WINE TASTING EVENT GATHERS MOMENTUM!

Even in the rain Finca Rustica, the outstanding Casa Rural hidden just off the mountain roads way above Benissa, Alicante, looks stunning! Guests for the annual exclusive wine tasting event, La Gran Cata en la Montaña, were once again charmed by the ambience of the finca, its vineyard and its gardens and even the clouds couldn’t hide all of the spectacular views. A grand setting for a wine tasting of outstanding quality!

Spanish Wine Aficionados appreciating the fine wines presented at La Gran Cata de la Montaña

Last year’s excellent wines had to be at least matched if I was going to call it a Top Tasting as half the patrons this year had attended last year’s inaugural event. I wasn’t worried though as I know the bodegas and the wines that I chose for this year’s event. Judging by the comments made during a most pleasant afternoon in early September, it seemed that I had been correct to be unconcerned about the standard of the five wines we tasted.

Our first wine was in fact a sparkler, a Cava from Cataluña. Not just any Cava though, Albet i Noya Gran Reserva 2009 Brut Nature is an exemplary Cava. Indeed this elegant sparkling wine is living proof that there is excellent Cava being made still within a DO that has been subjected to some criticism in recent months – and in this column too.

I’ve dwelled too often on the shortcomings of some of the Cava which is made in Cataluña. The break-away of some Cava produceers with similar concerns has been been covered in Cork Talk and I’d like now to concentrate on what’s good in the land of Spain’s answer to Champagne.

The Albet i Noya Gran Reserva is outstanding – and I use the word ‘living’ for good reason. A glance at the back label will reveal that this organic producer, one of the pioneers of organic growing in the area, believes, as I do, that the crucial date of disgorgement should be clearly displayed on sparkling wine labels.

Cork Talk has been in the vanguard of the driving force that is gathering pace in sparkling wine production the world over, including that in the hallowed vineyards of Champagne – that of transparency. Again I don’t want to go over that which has already been covered, but suffice to say simply that when a sparkling wine is parted from its lees (disgorged) it is in perfect condition to drink and will be so for a good length of time.

However as time proceeds this separation causes the wine to very slowly deteriorate after a length of time. Cava can last perfectly well for perhaps a year and a half – but, depending on the cava it will eventually start to die. If there is no date of disgorgement on the label the consumer cannot tell if the sparkling wine he is buying will be at its best – or past it!

The aroma of his Gran Reserva is as rich as can be and promises some wonderful flavours in the mouth. The traditional three grape varieties are supported by a sizeable proportion of Chardonnay and the patisserie notes normally associated with Champagne are here in abundance too. There’s a touch of green apple, largely from the Macabeo, and a certain which and taste of some classic Asturias dry cider. Its admirable length and graceful elegance allied to its richness make this wine and wonderful aperitif as well as being the perfect accompaniment to lots of starter dishes!

I was very keen to open the white wine we were having with our fish flavoured soup course. Many will automatically pair any fish dish with an Albariño from DO Rías Baixas – and it’s certainly a good match. But in nearby DO Valdeorras they have a jewel of a grape variety – Godello which is easily the match of the great Albariño’s and will, I’m certain, become just as famous and sough-after!

Bodegas Valdesil has been mentioned in this column before – I make no apology, as this bodega consistently turns out some of the best Godello wines in DO Valdeorras, and therefore some of the best dry white wine in Spain! Pezas da Portela is just such a wine – I love it!

Made from grapes grown in eleven different vineyards surrounding the village of Portela this wine is fruit driven but with an elegance that speaks of really fine wine. There is a most desirable mineral nose coming from the slate-strewn soils in which the vines grow – each plot has a unique soil make-up and aspect to the sun and wines coming from each have a slightly different aroma, flavour and feel. The skill of the winemaker is to blend these individual wines into a harmonious wine whose parts develop into a wonderful whole!

The juice from each plot is fermented and aged in different barrels and then blended – you’ll find apple flavours, some peachy notes, paraguyo and a refreshing understated citrus element too. Excellent!

The liver orientated next dish needed a big wine, but one with elegance as well as staying power. Parker’s estimate that Doix Costers de Vinyes Vellas 2009 from Bodegas Mas Doix, DOCa. Priorat, will be drinking perfectly well until 2029, seemed a jolly good match!

Concentrated dark berry flavours are to the fore on first sniff and hit, and in the mouth the wine expands in terms of it rich flavours. There are spicy notes with some bay leaf too, a hint of smoke, some graphite, some distant old leather, a slight cinnamon note and all bound together with ripe fruit, bold, but unobtrusive tannin – to ensure longevity.

I’ve written about Bodegas Mas Doix before, praising their full compliment of wines saying that they are wholly representative of the wines from DO Priorat. This wine, Doix Costers de Vinyes Vellas, is the flagship wine of the bodega, but could also be considered a flagship of the DO!

The grapes, a measly half kilo per vine(!), come from vineyards whose Cariñena and Garnacha vines are between 80 and 105 years of age. They grow on exposed sites where dramatic differences between day and night-time temperatures are a feature. Once collected, by hand of course, and then subjected to a rigorous selection table process the grapes enjoy a long maceration period to bring about excellent extraction of colour, tannin and flavour.

Parker places the wine in the 95 – 98 points bracket which means that it sells out the moment it hits the wine merchant shelves in the USA. And, despite its relatively heavy price tag, I’m not surprised. Stunning!

Please note Part 2 of the story of La Gran Cata en La Montaña will soon appear in Cork Talk – I can’t be miserly with my descriptions of such superb wines, and I’m running out of space!

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and through his unique website: www.colinharknessonwine.com and now Colin can be followed on Twitter @colinonwine .