Articles – Page 38 – Colin Harkness on Wine

BODEGAS SOMMOS, DO SOMONTANO

If I was to think of one word that suits all their production (including that of their sister bodega in DO Calatayud) it would be ‘elegance’.

HISTORIC SOMONTANO & A BODEGA

WITH MODERNITY AT ITS CORE

Forgive me if you’ve heard this before, but I do believe it’s worth saying again – I’ve never tasted a poor wine from DO Somontano! However, I’m unapologetic about making the above statement – again? If readers are looking for consistent quality, then DO Somontano is an ideal port of call. Not that the rolling, at times, mountainous, vineyards of this relatively young area of production are anywhere near the sea (DO status was only approved in 1985 [DO Rioja, for example was in the 20s]). Set in the foothills of the Pyrenees as well as climbing into the higher ground, DO Somontano averaging 350 – 700 metres above sea level, is far enough away from the Med for it to be minimally, if at all, influential.

In the 1970s some local growers decided that they’d like to capitalise on their long history of winemaking, started really in Roman times, believing that their wines were of sufficient quality for them to apply for DO status – although it took 11 years, it was granted, and DO Somontano never looked back. Lengthy studies of microclimates and soils, initially undertaken by the bodega we now know as Viñas de Vero, convinced, not only themselves, but others too, that high quality wines can be made in this area.

Enter, as recently as 2014(!), Bodegas Sommos, whose super-modern, architecturally beautiful building alone is a pointer to the winery’s philosophy. At the cutting edge (see the ‘sharp’ angles of the bodega!) of modern wine-making this bodega has been designed around current thinking, using tried and tested modern methods, the results of which are testimony to their success.

If I was to think of one word that suits all their production (including that of their sister bodega in DO Calatayud) it would be ‘elegance’.

Don’t get me wrong, I love the blockbustingly rich wines that we so often find in Spain. Those reds that fill your senses, almost as the cork is being extracted. The richness, often sheer opulence, of the meaty, big and bouncy reds designed to partner the equally powerful wild game and juicy casseroles so loved by the Spanish, and so appropriate in their specific locations.

However, I’m also a great lover of subtlety. Whilst, I’m not usually keen on overly delicate wines (their thinness can often be a result of over production and/or immature vines), I’m enamored with wines that have full taste and aroma profiles, but with an almost overriding, certainly integrated, elegance. The wines of Bodegas Sommos fit, perfectly!

The philosophy is spot on. The bodega building is very tall, an impressive part of its design, which allows for movement of the grapes and resulting juice by gravity rather than by intrusive pumps, which can damage the final product. All harvesting is performed at night when the temperatures are at their lowest, bunches are placed in stainless steel trailers with an air-tight stopper, and then transported post haste to the temperature controlled reception area.

Fermentation occurs either in huge French oak vats or concrete tanks before appropriate ageing (according to the style of wine required) in new French oak barrels.

It’s a large concern, the more so considering its sister bodega, so there are a number of lines. I was sent a good selection of wines from the large portfolio and tasted first the Glárima range, of which two whites were first up: the intriguing (you’ll see why in a moment!) Varietals Blanco 2015, and the Chardonnay/Gewurztraminer Roble 2015.

The former wine, the Varietals Blanco, is a blend of 40% each of Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer with the addition of 20% Pinot Noir – told you it was intriguing, a red rose between two whites! Each variety comes from vines that are allowed to yield only one and a half kilos of grapes, and is fermented separately in stainless steel. After blending the wine is aged with its lees for 4 months in new French oak barricas, with regular stirring.

It has a glorious fruity nose with a faint pink rose petal fragrance completing the aroma profile. On the palate, a little lychee, some peach and apricot confirm its fruit presence whilst the finish is quite rich, yet elegant and dry. A super start for me!

Glárima Roble Chardonnay/Gewurztraminer is a wine big in flavour, and initially mouth-filling, though the aforementioned elegance gently asserts itself making this very flavoursome wine ideal to simply enjoy on its own, as well as partnering fish and shellfish, through to chicken and turkey. Gewurztraminer is one of the darlingg varieties of this DO, and here’s an example of why this is so!

Glárima Varietals Tinto 2014 is a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon (Somontano generally is big on international varieties, for which it does receive some criticism, at least here Sommos leads with homegrown Tempranillo!). This vineyard, with the different varietals growing together, though in separate blocks, is permitted just 1 kilo of grapes per vine. Popular in China, the wine has enjoyed 8 mnths in French oak, again with its lees, and has violet traces in its colour as well as its aroma, with good damson and dark cherry fruit.

The Merlot/Tempranillo in this range also has a little Cabernet for extra colour and ageing potential. It’s had less time in oak, with a view to highlighting the intensity of the fruit as well as allowing the terroir to make its contribution. Extra to the dark, forest berries fruit, I enjoyed a whiff of menthol too.

Please see www.colinharknessonwine.com and click Events, to learn of a fantastic, exclusive Short Wine Break in May! Very limited places available – at the moment!

Cava de Paraje Calificado to Equal Top Champagne!

. . . there continues to be considerable interest in DO Cava’s attempt to bring Cava up to the level of the world’s finest sparkling wines, both in reality and also in the perception of the consumer.

CAVA DE PARAJE CALIFICADO – AN UPDATE

It’s something of an on-going saga, I know, but judging by the postbag I receive from avid readers (come on, I’m a journalist, exaggeration is what we do) the subject of the new eponymous Cava designation, above, has not yet become tedious. Indeed, there continues to be considerable interest in DO Cava’s attempt to bring Cava up to the level of the world’s finest sparkling wines, both in reality and also in the perception of the consumer.

For too long, cava has been perceived as a far cheaper alternative to Champagne, albeit lacking anything like the excellence of the great French Fizz, but at these prices – who’s complaining?! Well, regular readers will know that gargantuan steps have been made regarding this promotion, and importantly, re upping the quality too. Those of us who have taken off the blinkers (if we ever had them on) and tasted what are now called Premium Cavas (this is a part of DO Cava’s successful promotional drive) will know that in fact, there has always been excellent Cava, vying with Sparkling Wine from our illustrious neighbour.

I won’t bore you with the details of how the concept of Cava de Paraje Calificado came about, all over again (if you are not aware of the relevant Cork Talk articles written since the summer of 2014, please contact me and I’ll send them to you), but I would like to give you an update as to the current state of play. This with grateful acknowledgment of my colleague Amaya Cervera of ‘Spanish Wine Lover’ @spanish_wl and her excellent in-depth article on the same subject.

Contrary to announcements in this column and, also via myself, on Twitter and Facebook, there were no Cavas with the new designation to be bought before Christmas. I’d received this exciting information in good faith, from DO Cava itself, but on reflection I might have realised that they were being a tad ambitious. Given the huge task which requires an in-depth application from the bodegas requesting such elevation (there have been 12 applicants so far), followed by: soil analysis; climate considerations; an exhaustive; International tasting and judging process (in fact only begun on the 2^nd December); and finally a seemingly interminable wait for Government approval, which, of course, wasn’t helped by the first, inconclusive, election and the need for another, it’s not surprsing that there is a delay!

But let’s start by briefly explaining what Cava de Paraje Calificado is all about. This new appellation will be considered the top-tier of the cava pyramid, acknowledging the singularity of those Cavas which are eventually approved. Although the word ‘Paraje’ suggests a ‘small area’, it may be considered something of a misnomer, as in fact, whilst approved vineyards may indeed be small, perhaps just one or two hectares, they can also be very large tracts of land.

The secret is that no matter how large is the area, it must have the same, consistent soil and micro-climate profile. It is also possible for individual, distinct parcels of land within a bodegas total vineyard area, which share the same profiles, that are different from the rest of the vineyard area, to be accepted for the new status. And this goes further – individual areas which differ from themselves, as well as from the larger area can be accepted for individual Cava de Paraje Calificada in their own rights. A bodega may therefore have more than one approved and label acknowledged such higher tier Cava. The clue is in the word ‘singularity’.

There are other important rules too. The minimum age of the vines withing the areas applying is ten years. Actually, this surprised me – I would have thought that they would be looking for older vines, fewer, but better grapes, as you know. I wonder if there has been some bowing to pressure from some of the larger concerns here, or less cynically, this may just have been part of the whole negotiating process, started well before my original visit in 2014.

Next we come to the controversial question of permitted grape varieties, all of which must be picked by hand, and yields will be tightly controlled. Originally, there were those who passionately appealed for the exclusive use of just native varieties, of which Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel.lo are the most widely used. However, after much discussion it was considered that all varieties already permitted for Cava productions should be allowed – so Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are also in!

Finally, for now at least, the minimum time permitted ‘en rima’ (cellared bottles upside down with their lees) is 36 months, 6 months longer than the current minimum for Gran Reserva, before disgorgement. In fact, many of the very best Cavas have even longer, so this was no hardship for those applying, and in fact, it could be argued that it has helped speed up the process, in that there will be many bottles ‘en rima’ now, originally destined to become ‘just’ Gran Reservas, which, should applications be approved, will come out of the bodegas labeled Cava de Paraje Calificado!

Personally, I believe there should be one further requirement – it should be obligatory to display the date of disgorgement on the labels. But, hey we can’t have it all – I guess?

Next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme on Total FM 91.8 & www.totalfm.es is Sunday 12^th February, 18:00 – 20:00 hrs (Spain Time) and we are celebrating our 1st Anniversary! You may guess that we’ll be doing this with Sparkling Wine, of course – but did you know that there are three different methods by which Fizz is made? Well, I’ll be tasting: Cava, made, of course, by the ‘Traditional Method’; Prosecco made by the Charmat Method; and finally, and most unusually Spanish Sparkling Wine made by the Ancestral Method! Why not join me and find out more? Comments/Questions to: colin@colinharknessonwine.com. Plus, during the prog please text (00 34) 629 388 159.

The Appeal of Dessert Wines

The trouble with Dessert Wines is that, by definition (arguably), they arrive late for the party . . .

PRAISING PUD WINES

The trouble with Dessert Wines is that, by definition (arguably), they arrive late for the party. During the recently past Christmas celebrations we’ve all been enjoying dinners with several courses – lunches too! Also, when home entertaining at other times of the year, it’s the dessert wine that has to negotiate the wake of the others that arrived before. Usually, during these days of strict (rightly so) drink driving laws, it is the pud wine that is forsaken.

Of course, we could, as the fridge magnate directs, ‘Eat dessert first, life is short!’ This would solve the dessert wine problem. However, although there are some of us who do like an aperitif with a little sweetness – think Dubonnet, and Martini from days of yore – I would say that probably more of us follow a drier aperitif tradition.

At such grand repasts we often begin with a pre-starter starter, charmingly termed ‘amuse-bouches, and I’d suggest that it’s not too much of a quantum leap to state that these light-bites are often served with a Sparkling Wine. Incidentaly, in the UK, from where I’m writing this article at the moment, these bubbles are almost invariably of Italian origin – Prosecco, of course. So, at the head of the queue of the wines that dessert wines have to follow is the fizz – and with sparklers, we rarely stick with just one glass!

Then the next course, the starter proper. Well, as likely as not, the more so if we are being ‘traditional’ we’ll have a white wine lined up. Therefore, another behind which the dessert wine will have to follow. And it gets worse for our sweet friend. Given that these days in Spain the standard of white wine is so good and indeed there are so many from which to choose, it’s a definite possibility that there will be two whites to sample!

The main course comes next. If it’s fish, well we’ll probably stick with white, so more of the same wines sampled with the starter, or why not a different one? Meat courses will almost certainly demand a red wine (remember, we are being traditional here). As we all know, Spanish reds have such a long and successful history that our dinner host will certainly have had considerable difficulty choosing just one. Ergo, at least two more before the dessert wine!

Now, throw into the equation the likely fact that diners are probably fully sated (i.e. full and sloshed?!) by now, there will be several who simply will not be able to manage a dessert! Which means of course that the dessert wine will be similarly spurned. So, it would seem that pud wines, these days, are on a hiding to nothing!

Well, not so fast. I think it’s true that many of us, no matter how full we are, still enjoy a little (being the operative word) sweet taste at the end of a fine dinner to satisfy our sweet teeth. Enter, the Copper Pot Fudge Kitchen, hand in hand with pairing dessert wines!

Over Christmas I was as delighted to taste several samples of these delicious fudges, as I was charmed to meet their creator, Catrin, the hardworking young owner of this innovative nascent business. The answer to our desire to have something sweet with which to finish dinner was there, gift wrapped in environmentally friendly recycled papers and boxes. I just needed to get my head around finding dessert wines that would partner such exotic flavours as: Lemon Cheesecake fudge; Gingerbread Fudge; Pecan Praline; Christmas Pudding Fudge; and the best selling Salted Milk Chocolate Fudge – et al (see https://www.facebook.com/copperpotfudge/?fref=ts) !

Well, here are my suggestions: Lemon Cheesecake Fudge with Bronx Dessert Wine from Bodegas Pago de Tharsys; Pecan Praline Fudge with Oloroso Sherry (one of the sweetened versions rather than the naturally dry style prevalent in Spain); Salted Milk Chocolate Fudge (a flavour that is all the rage in the UK right now) with Bodegas Castaño Monastrell Dulce; Christmas Pudding Fudge with PX Sherry (the probably perfect pairing); Gingerbread Fudge (off piste here, as it’s not a dessert wine, but has a super ginger twist on entry as well as on the finish) Bodegas Casa Sicilia Albariño/Sauvignon/Macabeo.

Having left university with a very good English Literature degree, Catrin embarked on this, now burgeoning, totally unrelated fudge business – well you would wouldn’t you?! It’s always a been a passionate hobby for her and she has previous in that she’s been making fudge as Christmas presents for years. When offered the opportunity to trial her wares in her friend’s Welsh village craft shop she jumped at the chance – and the customers jumped at the fudges!

As far as is possible Catrin uses local produce – Welsh Butter, Anglesey Sea Salt, Welsh Whisky (would love to try that fudge, and it wouldn’t be wine to pair!) etc. She’s been mad busy with orders for Christmas, which has given her the confidence to consider expansion plans. There will soon be an online buying facility and, of course, she is always thinking of different flavours including at least two new ones each holiday season, as well as also drawing from her post-univertsity travelling. Possibilities here include such exotic tastes as: cardamom and white chocolate; mango; and chai spice.

So, I’ll be putting on my thinking cap again, each time I hear of a new flavour, to try and find a Spanish Dessert wine to partner them. I love my job!

A Happy New Year to all readers – knowing I have a supportive audience really is most appreciated. Thank you!

PS The next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme on Total FM 91.8 & online www.totalfm.es is this Sunday 29^th January from 18:00 – 20:00 hrs (Spanish Time). As it’s just after Chinese New Year the theme of the programme is Chinese Cuisine Paired with Spanish Wine! My two guests and will be tasting live on-air some Chinese Dishes accompanied by classic pairing wines, but made in Spain! This has to be worth a listen!

Also please note: I am taking bookings now for a splendid evening with a gourmet dinner, paired with fine wines and classical & contemporary music (performed by www.clairemarie.es) at Moraira’s excellent Restaurante Dgust! It’s on Thursday February 9^th and the cost is only 39€ – you can reserve by e-mailing colin@colinharknessonwine.com or by calling me on 629 388 159. Places are limited to just 30, so please contact me asap!

The Costa News Top Ten Wines of 2016

THE TEN BEST SPANISH WINES TASTED IN 2016

Always a difficult article, this, the more so as time goes on and the quality of Spanish wine continues to increase.

THE COSTA NEWS TOP TEN!

THE TEN BEST SPANISH WINES TASTED IN 2016

Always a difficult article, this, the more so as time goes on and the quality of Spanish wine continues to increase. I’m not sure how many Spanish wines I taste each year as research for Cork Talk, but it’s a large number for sure. So, choosing just 10 out of hundreds is difficult, to say the least.

I’m always ambivalent about this article. On the one hand it’s really enjoyable to relive some of those aromas and flavours, as well as occasions – because the why, when and where is also a part of wine appreciation, when I pore though my archived articles. However, I also agonize about those wines that I’ve had to discard, although they too were excellent, as I’m only allowed to choose ten!

It’s tough, but here goes! As with all the beauty pageants (for these wines can surely be called beautiful), tradition states that I do this in reverse order – so in tenth position in the Costa News Top Ten Spanish Wines of the Year is:

Bodegas Atlan and Artisan 8 Vents is made on the island of Mallorca and it really does speak of the 8 salt laden winds that this Balearic island stoically faces through the year. On the nose there are notes of harbour ropes freshly drenched by invigorating cool waves blending so well with the dark blackberry and blackcurrant fruit that soars to the surface of the wine in the glass, as well as a whiff of deck-sealing tar! It’s made with Merlot and Cabernet, which readers will know well, of course, but also in the blend is the Spanish island speciality Manto Negro and the little known Callet.

Clos Cor Ví Versat is an eclectic blend of Riesling, Viognier, Verdil and Moscatel which works like a dream, it is a really lovely nuanced dry white wine. There’s a minerality which must come from the plot in which the Riesling is grown; a superb apricot/peach fruitiness from Viognier; some body and citrus from the often shy Verdil; and a slightly exotic aroma emanating from the old Moscatel vines which really have made their home in this part of Spain.

Bodegas Hispano Suizas Impromtu Rosé is the best rosado I’ve tasted this year and, believe me, I’ve tasted a lot of rosado wine in 2016! Indeed, this choice was one of the most difficult. As I’ve said many times, Spain should be considered the Rosé wine capital of the world – there is such quality and diversity! Impromtu is made with Pinot Noir and fermented in oak – it’s a really super rosé, which is the n ame chosen (not rosado), as there is a definite French spin on this wine!

Bodegas Enrique Mendoza Estrecho is a wonderful example of monovarietal Monastrell! A torch bearer for DOP Alicante this exemplary wine is made from 100% Monastrell 70+ years old vines, with 15 months in french oak following fermentation. Wholly approachable now, and developing even as I write. Dark plum fruit, perhaps damsons, a faint glimpse of dark chocolate liqueur on the finish. Gloriously fruity with a good length.

Clos Cor Ví Riesling is the best Spanish Riesling I’ve tasted. Made, almost unbelievably on the high plateau around the village of Moixent, in the Valencia Community! Riesling’s natural home is Alsace and Germany where, claro, the weather is rather different from Valencia! Quite how the Clos Cor Ví winemaker achieves this in the Moixent area, is his/her very successful secret. Minerality, a touch of lime, subtlety and yet graceful power!

Bodegas Hispano Suizas Bassus Dessert Wine is, I think the highest placed dessert wine ever in the Costa News Top Ten, and deservedly so – it’s a beauty! Provencal rosé in colour, Bassus is made with the two black grape varieties, Bobal and Pinot Noir whose skins are left with the juice for only a short time. The former is indigenous to the Valencia area, and of course Pinot Noir is the basis of the great wines of Burgundy. So, one might ask, how do they grow such good Pinot in Utiel-Requena?

Bodega Lavia Lavia+ Paso Malo 2012 was one of the Gold Medal winning wines that I enjoyed when judging the annual DO Bullas Wine Competition, back in March. A single vineyard organic wine made from 100% old vine Monastrell. Fermented, and subsequently aged for 18 months, in 500 litre French oak barrels. You’ll find wild herbs, some earthiness and lots of rich fruit, clearly harvested at the optimum time. The finish is subtle and lengthy, forcing you to reach again for the bottle!

Bodegas Rompesedas Finca Las Parvas from DO Toro – It’s enjoyed 22 months in French oak following its fermentation in new French 500 litre barrels. The barrel fermentation here seems to have benefited the texture of the wine as well as adding an extra level of flavour and complexity. There’s a noticeable earthy minerality with almost ephemeral whiffs of bay leaf and thyme. More blackberry than black cherry it’s juicy fruity, mellow but with attitude and has a long finish!
Bodegas Castaño Casa Cisca – at about 35€/bottle, Casa Cisca sells out every year, with many cases going to the USA. It’s not flattery at all to say that this wine is one of my favourite Spanish red wines – excellent quality! From the oldest vineyards, over 60 yrs of age, only the best small bunches are selected for this iconic wine. It’s aged in oak for 16 months but, judicially, so as to enhance the depth, the richness, the fragrance, the complexity and the flavour, without at all diminishing the glorious fruit. The epitome of top quality Monastrell wines!

Bodegas Atlan and Artisan Epistem No. 2 – sorry, this is an expensive wine, but it’s wonderful and rightly takes the crown for this year, as the best Spanish Wine I’ve tasted! It received 93 Parker Points though I’d place it at least as 95! I tasted this wine completely blind, in terms of varieties and price and was knocked out by its quality. My guess that I was drinking a wine at around the 50€ a bottle mark was woefully out – this wine retails at 95€! It’s a structured, distinctive and complex wine, made with Garnacha Tintorera and Syrah whose organic vineyards are located at 700m above sea level, resting on limestone slabs where there is very little nutrient for the roots, which have to dig deep between the rocks for succor.

There is minerality along with perfect fruit, damson and blackberry, with a little black cherry too. A disturbed forest floor of fallen leaves complements the fruit-driven long finish as the taster savours the hedonistic pleasure that really fine wine brings! Ok, its price tag makes it a special occasion wine for most of us, but, what an occasion. NB the Epistem No.5, priced at just 85€, sold out! The No.2 will as well, I’m sure!

Try any of these wines and you are sure to have a Merry Christmas!

NB Next Fine Wine & Gourmet Dine Programme on Total FM 91.8 & online www.totalfm.es Sunday 18^th December, the last of the year, when it will be Christmas Party Wine/Dine Time! From 18:00 – 20:00 (Spanish Time)!