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DO Yecla Annual Wine Competition 2018

XI CERTAMEN VINOS DE D.O.P. YECLA 2018

I was delighted to be invited, once again, to join the judging panel of the annual wines of DO Yecla competition, in fact my sixth invitation. For four of these competitions, including this year’s, I have been the only foreigner on the panel, which I take as a real compliment, for this is not just a parochial contest, akin to the village vegetable show, as was. The results of this competition reverberate around both of the world’s hemispheres, covering all of the continents.

An amazing 95% of Yecla’s wines are exported, to I don’t know how many different countries, and it’s clear that in these established markets, as well as those in their infancy, there is bound to be keen interest in the medal winners of 2018. However, it’s not all positive – for some inexplicable reason, a mere 5% of production is sold in Spain!

It’s not a problem for the bodegas, most of whom sell out of wine, on their foreign markets – it’s just that it’s a tad lamentable that Spaniards out of the area, just don’t appreciate the beauty of the products that my fellow judges and I enjoyed recently. Plus, of course, this means that ex-pats living in different parts of Spain do not have the chance to try them, as distributors don’t take up the option. Yecla wines rock – and if/when they become known in the rest of Spain, sales will inevitably soar – reaching the level of some of the more famous areas of wine production!

The Judging Director, Señor Adrián Martínez Cutillas, had decided that there were too many wines (approaching 80) entered this year for them all to be tasted by all 12 judges. Two panels were needed, one panel tasting all the white wines and rosados, whilst the other panel (mine, it so happened) tasted all the young reds. After the break, both panels tasted all the red wines which had been oak aged and placed in different categories: for example ‘Tinto Joven Madera 2017 & 2016’, Young Red With Some Oak Aging 2017 & 2016, and so on. Finally, we all tasted there three delightful, delicious Red Dessert wines!

The venerable, older wines were poured from decanters!

The Consejo Regulador offices are to be found on a modern industrial estate, outside of the bucolic, atmospheric town centre. It’s not pretty, but it’s perfectly practical. There is easy access, plenty of parking and, particularly wine tasting/judging-wise, it’s custom made and fit for purpose.

The tasting rooms are a few metres below ground level, naturally cooler therefore, but also supplied with the necessary wine chillers which keep the various styles of wine, all wrapped in aluminum foil to ensure that prying eyes (not that there ever are any!) do not learn of a certain wine’s provenance. It is, of course, a blind tasting, so that no favouritism can be shown.

When judging at the International Wine & Spirits Competition, as I do, we are given similar information to the above, i.e. category-wise, as well as general information about predominant grape varieties – e.g. Rioja Crianza, Tempranillo dominated etc. This isn’t to help the judges, it’s because we are also expected in that competition to consider typicity.

At the Certamen Vinos de DOP Yecla this information is not available. Therefore, whilst it’s very likely that the red wines we are tasting, for example, will have at least some Monastrell in them, it’s not certain, and there may well/probably will be others in the blend. For me it adds a little excitement – can I identify the varieties used?

Judging starts at 10:00 hrs and continues – well, until it’s finished. This year we were in there, admittedly with a snack break, until 13:50 hrs – a long session. We then retired to lunch, where a some of the wine-makers, bodega owners and Consejo Regulador members joined us. If you are ever in Yecla – go for lunch at Bodegas Barahonda! It really is exceptional!

Eventually all, workers, owners, growers, their families etc, as well as the giltterati of the the Yecla Wine World, dressed to impress, of course, descend on a restaurant for the annual dinner, and the presentation of the prizes, as yet kept under lock and key! It really is quite atmospheric and, whilst all are friendly in this area of production, there is nevertheless an air of competition – it goes with the name, I guess!

On my table, for example, two ladies, owners of a winery making strictly vegan wines, were noticeably disappointed that their two Gold Medals of last year, were not repeated this time. Whereas, a lady and gent (my friends Catherine and Harald of Bodegas Boquera), who did not medal last year (in this competition) were delighted to learn that they had been awarded a Silver! And so it went on.

Space does not allow me to give details of all medals, but a special mention must be recorded for Bodegas Barahonda, whose representatives were called to the podium more frequently than any of the other bodegas. Enhorabuena (congratulations) to them as well as all who entered as I really believe that this year was one of the best, in terms of the overall standard. Plus, a huge thanks and congratulations to DOP Yecla, for my invitation and for their perfect, professional organisation! Hasta la proxima – espero!

BREAKING WINE NEWS: Thurs. 21^st June at the exciting La La Land Piano Bar and Restaurant, Denia, a super Wine Pairing Dinner, 32:50€. Exceptional value for money! To reserve: colin@colinharknessonwine.com or please call 629 388 159. Places limited!

DO Ribera del Duero Also Makes White Wine!

RIBERA DEL DUERO – NOT JUST ABOUT REDS

For a number of years at the various tastings I present I have casually asked those in attendance if they were buying more Rioja wines than Ribera del Duero, or vice versa. Up until, perhaps the last two years, this was almost invariably answered in favour of DO Ribera del Duero.

I was talking, of course, of red wine.

Both DOs have a history of making top class red wines, though it must be admitted that Rioja’s is a far longer history, having been accepted as a Denominación de Origen approximately 6o years before the fledgling DO Ribera del Duero started flapping its wings!

Neither DO has been particularly recognised as an area for great white wines. However, if the white I am about to describe, made by Bodegas Valduero in Ribera del Duero is anything to go by, you can expect many more people to take note of the whites of this excellent red wine DO!

The opposition, too, are starting to have some greater success with their whites, this being in good part due to their allowing, during the last few years, different white wine grape varieties to be used. DO Ribera del Duero’s imminent success will be because of a resurgence of interest in the only white wine variety that is approved by the Consejo Regulador – Albillo. There isn’t much of it around, generally, to be honest – indeed Valduero claims theirs to be the only Albillo made at the moment. However, it is in the ascendancy and certainly well worth seeking out.

The Albillo grapes are harvested from Valduero’s 10 hectare vineyard and taken quickly to the bodega where the gently pressed juice is fermented at a low temperature, to ensure the aromatics of the resulting wine – and I can tell you, it works! There’s a rich and ripe tropical fruit note on the nose as well as some blanched almond nuttiness. It’s rich on the palate too, full, with presence with a super grapefruit acidity which keeps the wine fresh.

It can be served to very good effect with salads and meaty fish and in fact we enjoyed it with roast chicken breast filled with cheese!

Let’s not forget, though, that Ribera del Duero is still famous for its red wines, so it would have been dreadfully ruse of me not to accept the two excellent reds from Bodegas Valduero!

The bodega was established in 1984, at about the same time as the DO was being approved and granted by the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture. Indeed, Bodegas Valduero is one of the founding members of the DO.

The head wine-maker is Yolanda García Viadero, daughter of the founder, and a Señora on a mission! Determined to, not only uphold, the tradition fine wine making in Ribera del Duero, this lady wants to develop it further. Señora García is one of an increasing number of women winemakers in Spain who are achieving truly excellent results.

I was sent two of their Élite range, two wines, both made with Tinto Fino, that perhaps demonstrate the philosophy of the bodega. Yolanda is convinced that this variety, one of the other names for Tempranillo, needs time in oak and also in bottle in order to fully capture its excellence. Consequently they make only Crianza through to Gran Reserva red wines.

Valduero Una Cepa, is made from 50 years old vines that have been hand harvested. Even at 50 years old the vines are vigorous enough to produce plenty of bunches – most of which are snipped as the green harvest ensures fewer, but richer grapes. And when I say ‘fewer’ I really mean it – each vine is left with only enough grapes to make one bottle of wine!

Once fermented, the wine is placed in oak barrels where it rests in a very old cellar near the town, whose tunnels and cellar area have been amplified by the family, boasting 50 metres below the land at its deepest! Before release the wine is bottled, remaining in deep storage for a further 12 months.

If you don’t love this wine, you don’t like Spanish wine! Structured, intense and complex the wine has layers of mature red and black fruit with seductive vanilla notes and a touch of leather too! Splendid wine!

Valduero 6 Años, a Gold Medal winner is a wine for those who just love an oaky red! The vines here are 40 years old, and their younger fruit than the above needs a little taming for it to be able to demo the elegance that is required for this wine. Four different oaks are used to age the wine for 36 months. Then, a further 3 years (hence the name!) is spent in bottle before realease.

It’s a wonderful mouthful oak oaky wine, with, for me a little more of the darker fruit notes than red – damsons and black cherries, with the occasional appearance of some loganberry and very ripe blueberry. There’s a caramel note on the nose and some more leather too. (www.bodegasvalduero.com)

PS Next wine paired dinner in Javea, Thurs. 14^th June. Please contact me for details!

colin@colinharknessonwine.com ; Facebook Colin Harkness ; Twitter @colinonwine

From Elisabeth, co-founder, Milagro Activity Holidays for Visitors from Sweden!

One of the guests who was here last June and did the wine tasting with you, liked Milagro so much so she has booked her 9 friends again this year, and one of the things that she really wanted to experience again was you and your skill about wine!

Elisabeth

Gratefully received – re latest Blog!

Hi Colin

Very interesting blog about the season in the life of a vine. Rather beautifully describes the wonders that nature provides giving us the end pleasure of a glass full of delicious fruit. Great for its aroma and the taste buds.

Once those flowers start becoming fruit we will all need to strip out some leaf cover to allow air and sunshine to finish the job. The Romans who realised Wine could halt scurvy on the old galleons would be amazed now to see how the World has fallen in love with this liquid refreshment.

Well done Colin very interesting.

Best regards
Sue & Roger