First Published Costa News Group, April 2011, *Plus* Breaking News Update, 1st May 2011

AN ODE TO ODDBINS

THE LAMENTABLE DEMISE OF THE

COMMON MAN’S WINE MERCHANTS

 Regular readers will have noticed over the fourteen years of Cork Talk that I have regularly mentioned, in glowing terms I might add, the wine merchants chain Oddbins. My introduction to the tutored study of wine was through Oddbins. My teacher, David Large, was manager of their largest shop in Liverpool. My first restaurant opened with Oddbins, Prenton, as suppliers, the second restaurant followed suit.

 Then some years later, having established a name for myself in the Spanish wine-world, I brokered a deal between Oddbins and a Spanish supplier. Yes, I have a happy feel-good connection with Oddbins that goes back over 20 years. It’s not surprising therefore that I read with some sadness recently that the company has gone into administration.

 Twenty million pounds worth of debts are, quite understandably, considered to be too heavy a handicap, the business is no longer viable. Over eight of those millions are owed to HMRC (Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs) and as the largest creditor it was them who finally pulled the plug, not the cork.

 Of course that leaves another twelve million owed to other parties – British Gas is a creditor for example but also a number of wineries all over the world may be owed payment for wine deliveries Oddbins received when it was trading. Pol Roger, the famous but relatively small Champagne House is out over 200,000 pounds and as their managing director Nick James says for a small company like theirs it’s a major blow which will have serious repercussions throughout the industry.

 The extremely disgruntled owner of the Sur de los Andes winery in Argentina has suggested that Oddbins was badly managed by its previous owners, Castel, and that this mismanagement continued with the current owner Simon Baile. Indeed ‘Disgusted of Argentina’ goes a step further claiming he has been fraudulently treated by Mr. Baile who ordered twice the usual stock before Christmas knowing that he would be unable to pay for the wine, but in fact selling it all!

 Staff at the shops are understandably unhappy too. The more so when it was revealed that one of the executives was given a five-figure redundancy pay off, just before the company went into administration. And the administrators are saying that it is unlikely that creditors will receive any more than 7·5 pence in the pound!

 For me it’s a real shame. Oddbins were the pioneers of making wine accessible to everyone. Extremely well-informed, jeans and tee-shirt clad shop assistants and managers smiled when they asked if they could help shoppers make their choices. Illuminating and often amusing tasting notes were quirkily written by each new wine.

 They didn’t try to sell you the most expensive wine, they assessed all your requirements and comments recommending the wine they honestly thought best suited you. Wine experts and novices alike were comfortable in Oddbins premises.

 Messrs. Manning and Smith from Deloittes have been appointed Joint Administrators and they are saying that there are buyers interested, but it’s unclear whether it will be bought as a going concern or if it will be bought in small portions.

 But there’s another danger lurking behind this sad demise. If Oddbins failure is indicative of a general malaise in the UK wine trade, outside that of the supermarkets, does it mean that there will be other smaller wine specialist shops going to the wall as well? And if so will this mean that we will be even more in the hands of the supermarkets who will be able to dictate what we drink in the UK? It’s a worry, but not here I’m glad to say – yet?

*Breaking News, 1st May 2011* 37 of Oddbins shops have just been sold as going concerns to EFB (European Food Brokers), whose owner, Raj Chatha, said ‘this will be a new dawn for Oddbins.’

Mr. Chatha also commented that he was pleased to have saved many of the jobs of Oddbins’ staff whose futures had looked precarious.

The drinks sector of EFB trades under the name of Whitalls Wines Limited and of his plans for the new shops Mr. Chatha also said, “Our focus over the coming weeks and months will be to replenish the stores with an exciting range at competitive prices.”

 PS There’s a super Duets Evening with Copas and Tapas happening at the beautiful Restaurante Ca Pepe, Moraira on Wednesday 4th May, organised by the musical Duo Dolce Divas (pianist Kirsty Glen will also be singing with Claire Post!). Duets will performed from their new repertoire as well as with the exceptional Baritone voice of Andy Headford. The price of this special innovative evening is only 20€; to reserve your places please e-mail info@dolcedivas.net ; or call me on 629 388 159.

First Published Costa News Group, April 2011

BODEGAS FARIÑA’S WINES REVISITED

 Last year, as usual, I received a large number of wine samples from producers keen on the wide publicity that a column in the Costa News Groups’ publications guarantees. Regular Cork Talk readers will thus have read about wines from many of the wide variety of areas of production in our adoptive country. I hope you agree that it’s good to experiment with different wine styles, grape varieties etc and I hope that you’ve found this column illuminating and ultimately, ‘tasty’!

 Some of the sample-supplying bodegas from last year had the presence of mind to include two examples of each of the wines they sent. My house is full of wine, so it’s not that I need an extra bottle or three to drink! The advantage of having two bottles of each wine is that it affords me the opportunity of examining the evolution of the wine over a roughly twelve month period.

 There is a useful, if not wholly scientific, trick to assessing how long a wine may keep before it starts to decline. If you try the same bottle of wine on successive nights you will be able to taste how it might develop over a longer period, when it is cellared and not open. The fast-track oxygen it takes onboard during this, say three day period, gives an idea as to its progress over time.

 But the many variables involved mean that there isn’t a hard and fast formula, for example three days good development equals three to five years of longevity if cellared – it doesn’t work! It’s best to keep bottles and taste again after time.

 So, those forward thinking bodegas, like Bodegas Fariña from DO Toro, have given me the chance to see how accurate were my opinions when I first tasted the wine. Plus, readers may like to further consider their purchase.

 Bodegas Fariña’s Tinto Cosecha 2009 is a joven (young) wine made to be enjoyed whilst still in its youth. The vaguely purple hue to the wine a year ago has no matured into a dark red colour. The mixture of light and dark red fruits on the nose and palate have morphed into dark forest fruits with a lick of liquorice and, even without wood, there is a depth of flavour that suggests a more expensive wine.

 The Gran Colegiata Tinto Roble 2008, as its name suggests, has had some oak ageing (4 months) and you’d expect therefore that such a wine would mature and become more complex, whilst retaining its juicy fruit content. Again this wine, one year on, has developed well with a slightly longer finish.

 Gran Colegiata Crianza 2006 Roble Frances has benefitted from its eleven months in the most subtle of all oaks. The rich Fariña trademark dark colour is enhanced by the concentrated nature of the wine. Dark brambly fruits have a lick of cinnamon and black pepper 12 months later and the finish is richer and longer.

 The Reserva 2001, like most of Fariña’s wines is made from 100% Tinta de Toro grapes (aka Tempranillo) but has had more exposure to oak, American in this case, as well as the obligatory extra ageing in bottle. My notes tell me that I thought the wine will mature a little further and then rest at level for a couple more years before maybe starting to slowly decline. Well it’s drinking very well still.

 Finally a wine that I have loved since I first tasted it, some years ago – their flagship Gran Colegiata Campus. The grapes for this limited production wine were hand-harvested from vines of 50-140 years of age and obviously treated with the greatest respect. I tasted the 2004 vintage a year ago and it just keeps improving!

Bay Radio On-Air Wine Tasting, March 2011

Bay Radio Sunday Brunch Presenters, Noelle and Bob - oh no, with empty glasses!

Apricot-Ginger Pork

A lightly coloured meat, Pork will be quite happy with a rosado wine and also, considering the other ingredients, with certain styles of white wine too. But reds won’t really work with this one.
 
This super sounding recipe will finish with a touch of sweetness I think, which really counts out almost all red wines. And it’s this sweetness that demands a touch of the same with the wine to accompany the dish.
 
I’ve mentioned before Santa Digna Rosado wine from Miguel Torres’ outpost in Chile, but widely available here. This wine is made from Cabernet Sauvignon and is a richly coloured rosé whose residual sugar is such that it can really be defined as an off-dry rosado style. It will suit this recipe very well and, as a sop to red wine fans, whilst not red it is dark in colour and made with the red wine fraternity’s ‘darling’ grape variety, Cabernet Sauvignon.
 
However white wine drinkers don’t need to miss out, particularly those with a penchant for off-dry, whites. I promise I’m not taking a back-hander from Señor Torres, but I am going to recommend another of his wines, this time home-grown though!
 
Viña Esmeralda has white flower blossom on the nose (from the Gewurztraminer in the blend) and that ever-so-important slight touch of sweetness (from the 80% or so Moscatel that is the other variety used).  
 
Salud!

Bay Radio Sunday Brunch Wine Recommendation!

Tuna & Egg Pie
Tinned tuna is happy with aromatic white wines and egg will be comfortable too so, which to choose?
 
As I’ve said many times before Spain can no longer be considered a red wine country with not much more than lip-service being paid to white wine production, albeit with some notable exceptions like Albariño wines from Galicia. There are many splendid white wines now being made in several different areas of Spain.
 
DO Rueda with their indigenous Verdejo and their imported foreign grape variety, Sauvignon Blanc could provide a super match. Or a Chardonnay from DO Somontano would do the trick. There are some cracking white wines from the Pais Basco made from unpronounceable varieties in DO Chacoli De Vizcaya-Bizkaiko Txakolina!  
 
However perhaps Galicia remains a centre of excellence for whites and you may want to choose an Albariño (that’s the grape variety) from DO Rias Baixas which would be super. Or a Godello (grape variety again) from DO Valdeorras.
 
Nevertheless I’m going to suggest a white wine, from the Galicia area, but this time from DO Ribiero made from perhaps a blend of Treixadura, Godello and Albariño – there’s loads of fruit-laden aromas in such a wine with fresh acidity too – a good match I think!
 
Salud!