Articles

First Published in Costa News Group, May 2012

BODEGAS MONTEREBRO

DO JUMILLA

Regrettably, I don’t tend to receive much wine from Denominación de Origen Jumilla. So I was delighted when a case of white and red wines found their way to my door recently.

DO Jumilla, like many DOs of Spain, reinvented itself, slowly changing from the old predominately bulk wine producing area for which it had a reasonable name throughout Europe as a supplier of high alcohol, deeply coloured wine, used perhaps unscrupulously to bulk up wines from countries with a less favourable climate, to a fine wine producer in its own right.

The change, originally gradual, but wholly fast-track in the last ten years, has brought about some of the finest wines produced in South East Spain. Witness if you will, (well never mind witness, taste it!), El Nido, from Bodegas El Nido (Bodegas Juan Gil) which sells for about 150€ per bottle! And it’s clear that DO Jumilla is now well and truly established on Spain’s map of quality wine producing areas.

However, thankfully, not all wines produced are as stratospherically priced. Most, of course, have managed several steps upwards on the quality ladder, but have kept their prices down.

Bodegas Monterebro is a new bodega, in fact a wine producer whose existence came about as a natural consequence of the parent company’s dealings in the retail wine trade. If we are successfully selling other people’s wines, why don’t we make some of our own and market that too?

Currently, the Monterebro portfolio of just three wines, a white and two reds, is only available though the sister company, Murcia Wine Club (details at the foot of this article). But I expect this to change as distributors start to receive sample bottles and realise the very good quality/price ratio. You can expect to see these wines first on restaurant wine lists and then in the supermarkets and shops – provided the as yet limited production can keep up!

Monterebro Blanco 2011 (Commended International Wine Chalenge, IWC) is a white wine made with Malvasia and a telling 15% or so of Moscatel. Telling, as it is this variety that for me the wine the aromatic edge that it needs. White flowers, raisons and citrus notes make this aromatic wine an ideal refreshing aperitif as well as enabling it to accompany so of the spicy dishes of South East Asian cuisine. Clean and fresh.

There are two reds: Joven (young) and Barrica. Both are made with the local grape variety Monastrell, of which regular readers will have heard many times as it is a favourite of mine, producing, as it does, deeply coloured and flavoured red wines, often of distinction.

The difference between the two of course is oak and vineyard and grape selection. The Joven has seen no oak but the Monterebro Barrica (Bronze Medal IWC) 2011 has enjoyed four months in American and French new oak barrels (barricas). It’s a style of wine that is becoming ever more popular here in Spain. Consumers want the primary fruit flavours, for the sheer juiciness of the drink – in this case both light and dark cherries with slight plummy notes too, but they require a little more depth of flavour and a touch of complexity, supplied of cousre by the time spent in wood.

There’s a nice balance between fruit and oak in this wine. The oak is integrated but it’s there and adds the required extra depth without taking over the show. I could see this wine being quite a hit at BBQs over the summer where it will be a lovely, tasty and refreshing red wine served very slightly chilled.

The Monterebro Joven 2011(Commended IWC) wine is also made with Monastrell. It’s light quite fruit driven with not a trace of harshness. Grapes from the older vines are used to make the Barrica so it follows that this young wine would use the younger grapes.

The vineyards from which the Monterebro grapes are harvested are at an altitude of between 700 – 740 metres above sea level which affords cool night time temperatures which helps with acidity. The bunches of grapes mature slowly and are harvested when they are small and concentrated.

Chalky, sandy soils ensure that the roots have to search for nutrients and the small rocks and stones on the surface and slightly beneath help to hold some moisture from the limited rainfall as well as retaining some of the warmth of the sun to help during the initial growing period when freezing temperatures can be encountered.

All three wines, including the white, will respond well to being opened an hour or more before serving and all three can be served chilled – so some super summer sipping in store!

For supplies of these wines go to: www.murciawineclub.com

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and through his unique wine services website: www.colinharknessonwine.com

First Published Costa News Group, June 2012

RESTAURANTE HIMALAYA

THE GREATEST CHALLENGE TO

ETHNIC CUISINE/SPANISH WINE PAIRINGS?

Many in the Moraira area will know that the super Nepalese/Indian restaurant, The Himalaya, has recently moved to its new location right in the centre of Moraira. This was the final venue of the series, Ethnic Cuisine Meets Spanish Wine – A Marriage Made In Moraira, and yet in some ways it’s where it all began!

A few months ago I was involved in some discussion regarding making some changes to an Indian Restaurant’s wine list in a different area. The idea was that I would present a wine tasting in the restaurant using the wines that I’d chosen for their list and demonstrating, hopefully, how wine can be a far superior accompaniment to Indian food than the popular choice, beer.

In fact the discussions came to nothing, but it started me thinking about my own area where there are a number of excellent Ethnic Cuisine restaurants. An idea, and subsequently a small series was born. As regular readers will know we started with Moroccan Cuisine, then moved to Indonesian food, ending with perhaps the greatest challenge of all – matching Spanish wines with Nepalese/Indian cooking.

Eighty-three reservations, plus a waiting list, hoping for a cancellation, was an indication to Chef-Patron, Thapa, Restaurant Manager, Praju, the wholly Nepalese staff and myself that the idea was a popular one! It was up to us to rise to the challenge!

The fact is that most, though not all, Nepalese/Indian dishes are far friendlier to white wines, particularly, and also rosados, than to reds. For a red wine to work with these flavours and of course with the spicy, chilli heat of some of the dishes it has to be practically tannin-free, with low acidity and extremely fruit driven. Matches are therefore possible and we did have one red amongst the five wines tasted, each with a different course. However with three whites and one rosado it was in the minority.

All Thapa’s recipes are authentic, with spices imported from Nepal and Pakistan and ground in the restaurant’s kitchen according to explicit instructions. Breadcrumbed Spiced Potato Balls were served  Pazo de Villarei, a lovely Albariño from DO Rias Baixas. Although traditionally served with shellfish in Galicia, this rich and deeply aromatic white wine combined so well on the palate negating any burn potential of the mild to medium spicing.

To say that we had a lamb chop for the next course, although true, does not do this tender, subtly spiced meat dish justice at all! I was delighted with the choice of rosado to accompany the dish. Castillo de Javier from DO Navarra is a ‘Lágrima’ wine, a wine made with the first 60% of the Garnacha grapes’ juice after a gentle pressing.

Known in English as the Free-run juice this is the ‘must’ (grape juice) that will always make the best wine. Aromatic and delightfully full-bodied for a rosado the wine had a rich depth to it which was able to stand up to the lamb and combine on the palate with the spices.

Alborado Verdejo, from DO Rueda – where else(?), was served with chilli-spiced prawn dish, a favourite of mine. As you’ve perhaps read in this column before Verdejoa shares some of the flavour and aroma characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc, a variety which is often recommended to accompany Asian cuisine. For me the addition of some vegetal notes to the Sauvignon-esque fruit makes this a lovely drink as an aperitif but also with this style of food.

I have to admit to a slight nervousness regarding my choice of wine for the next dish – chicken cooked to a secret recipe, unique to the Himalaya. Normally chicken will be happy with a red wine – I’d chosen the fruitiest on the list, from Ribera del Duero where fruit is often to the fore. But will it be fruity enough to be paired with the spices of the dish.

Tarsus is a super wine – I’d recommend you try it. It’s a Crianza and has 12 months in American and French oak, but it was this oak aged element that was the cause of my concern. I think, though, that the fruit content was sufficient to make this a happy marriage.

Finally I couldn’t resist a Sauvignon Blanc white wine. Aura, DO Rueda, is rich with pungent aromas and full flavours. We drank it with a spiced vegetarian dish and for me the combination worked very well – the ‘heat’ was momentarily taken out of the dish whilst the spices and fruit flavours got to know each other but then returned integrate fully with the combined tastes. Super wine and lovely dish!

So, roll on the next series (probably in the Autumn) linking Ethnic Cuisine with Spanish wines.

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and though his unique wine services website: www.colinharknessonwine.com

First Published Costa News Group April 2012

RAIMAT/CODORNIU

WE’RE TALKING FIZZ!

You’re never far away from Cava in Barcelona. It is, of course, the capital of Cataluña where some 95% of all cava is made (remember that Cava is the only Spanish Denominación de Origen that has more than one geographical area of production – cava, for example, is also made in part of Valencia).

So it’s not surprising that the aperitif drink of the city is cava, it’s an integral part of the undercurrent ‘fizz’ of such a happening city. Indeed many of the hotels lay on splendid buffet breakfasts headed always by an open, nicely chilled bottle of cava – often next to the fresh orange, perhaps in a gesture of appeasement to those of a more temperate nature? Probably not, Barcelona is anything but politically correct!

No surprise then that at this magnificent metropolis’ biennial Wine and Food fair, Alimentaria, there is always a plethora of cava houses happy to show off their wares. And, as part of my mission there this year was to research just how good is Spain’s answer to the perhaps more distinguished sparkling wine of France, I was in the right place!

The names Codorniu and Raimat are interchangeable, though the controlling company is the former of the two. Their stand was alluring (like their cavas, I was soon to discover) even though I was one of the first visitors to the huge Intervin Pavillion as the clock touched 10:00 am. Although the fair officially opens at 10, those on the stands don’t expect any visitors so they use the time for meetings, staff training etc. Sure enough, when I spoke to the charming young ladies I was told that the man I needed to speak to was in fact in a breakfast (with cava, claro) meeting on the other side of the large stand.

However the observant gentleman in question (I’ve lost his card unfortunately) saw me hovering and asked if he could help. I explained for whom I was writing, and the meeting was adjourned!

There is a fear in the wine world that the bigger the company the less quality is produced – I’m sure it’s true in some, maybe many cases – but certainly not at Codorniu. I’ve been to the bodega, tasted wines in their custom-designed tasting room an impressive 100 metres above the cellers where millions of bottles of cava peacefully repose waiting for their fifteen minutes of fame, and it’s clear that here, big is beautiful!

Raimat operates under the auspices of DO Costers del Segre as well as DO Cava, I’ll explainwhy in a moment! Their 100% Chardonnay Vino Espumo (what’s in a name? …) Brut was our starting reference point, and a fine cava, oops, it is – straw coloured with some lime hints, full on the nose, medium weighted with a touch of buttery toffee.

Raimat Gran Brut Chardonnay Pinot Noir blend, may not in fact say the magic word ‘cava’ – another of the ridiculous red-tape rules at which the New World wine-makers scoff. Up until fairly recently Cava did not allow the use of Pinot Noir as one of its approved varieties for blanco cavas. But don’t worry, it’s the same thing (he’s said it again!). By any other name this is a super glass of fizz, fine mousse with a distinct and endearing slight sparkling cider nose to it.

Now officially a cava, because it obey all the rules, their Brut Nature is made with local darling Xarel.lo and French Champagne variety Chardonnay. Aperitif dry with a touch of butter on the palate, this is a wine for amuse gueule. Lovely.

Interestingly I was then given a taste of their still white wine, made with the same varieties as the above sparkler but without the second fermentation in bottle. It is a very approachable and aromatic white wine, dry and fresh yes, but quite full flavoured with measured acidity. I’m starting to have renewed respect for Xarel.lo, this wasn’t the first nor the last white wine I tasted in Barcelona made with this indigenous grape which when allowed to fully ripen, yet picked early to maintain acidity, can be a super drink.

Anna de Codorniu Blanc de Noir (white cava made with Pinot Noir, a black grape, by keeping the skins away from the must to avoid any colour transfer) is a product of our age, Cava’s slightly more enlightened age as they now allow this wonderful Champagne variety to make white cava. There’s a tiny amount of colouring from the skins, an extremely pale onion skin colour, but there’s nothing sour about this wine, and of course it’s widely available and well priced.

One of their top, flagship cavas is Reina Mª Cristina Reserva 2008. It’s a Blanc de Noir (watch out for this wine and this style as it seems to be becoming more prevalent, which is all to the good) and is elegance and finesse combined with full flavours and aromas plus a long finish. Excellent!

PS You are still in time to reserve for our final Ethnic Cuisine Meets Spanish Wine – A Marriage Made In Moraira evenings, if there are places remaining! We are at Restaurtante Bajul the wonderful Indonesian Restaurant, Weds. 16th May; and at Restaurante Himalaya, superb Nepalese/Indian cuisine Tues. 29th May. My job is to match good Spanish wines with the restaurants’ individual specialities! Please call 629 388 159 for more details and to reserve!

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and through his unique wine services website, www.colinharknessonwine.com

First Published Costa News Group April 2012

BODEGAS PARÉS BALTÁ

DO PENEDÉS

Although the original vineyards were first planted in 1790 it wasn’t really until the Cusiné family bought the site, now known as Bodegas Parés Baltá, that the winery moved up a gear heading, ultimately, for the fast lane of quality Penedés wine producion.

Indeed each incoming generation of this still family owned bodega changed gear, including the current incumbents, founder Joan Cusiné Hill’s grandchildren, Joan and Josep Cusiné Carol, who have bought new and fresh ideas to the business, whilst simultaneously respecting family tradition.

Actually Joan and Josep have brought more than just business acumen and innovation to the winery – they’ve each brought along their wives, who are probably the only sister-in-law wine making team in Spain and maybe beyond! So the future looks good – but what of the wines?

Well I was given a no-holds-barred tasting by their representative, Nottingham born and Liverpool Uni educated, UK Export Manager, Anna Booth, whose infinite charm, I hoped, would be matched by the cavas and white wines that I was about to sample. I only had time for the whites, but I’m relishing the reds which should soon arrive!

Selectio S brut Cava has had 30 months in bottle before its release onto the market. This makes it, by my reckoning a Reserva + style – i.e. its ageing is longer than for a regular Reserva but not quite as long as a Gran Reserva. However such distinctions don’t really matter to the the winemakers whose priority is simply to release when the time is right and not according to a calendar.

Made with 100% organic grapes (the family have always farmed organically, gaining the official certificate in 2004), the blend is of all three traditonal varieties Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel.lo plus some Chardonnay. At about 12€ only, this wine, from the company’s Classical Range, wines that are made to enjoy and drink now, was an excellent start! It has understated creamy patisserie notes on the nose but on the palate there is good depth of flavour with a fine mousse.

Perhaps the flagship of the bodega is the Micro-cuvée range, wines and cavas made from low yielding old vines grown in vineyards that boast beneficial micro-climates and terroirs. Their Micro-cuvée wines and cavas simultaneously convey full flavours and elegance, perhaps in no small way due to the feminine influence of the winemakers!

From this range comes Blanca Cusiné 2008 Cava whose Champagne-esque blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (the Pinot having been fermented in 400 litre French Oak barrels) is expressive on the nose, a touch toasty, and deeply flavoured on the palate with a long finish. It’s had 35 months in bottle following it’s second fermentation and as such is a similar style to a cava Gran Reserva.

The Rosa Cusiné 2008, named after the Great-grandmother, is a new release. A peach-melba coloured rosado cava made from 100% Garnacha whose taste and perfume is as good as it looks, sitting so elegantly in a flute tempting the onlooker!

Blanc de Pacs (named after Pacs, the village where the winery is situated) is a dry white still wine with a cool label! Cava’s Parellada, Xarel.lo and Macabeo are used for this super, quite aromatic aperitif wine which is fresh with an attractive medium length. At only about 5€ per bottle it’s a wine to always have in the fridge, just for when you need a refreshing drink!

On the highest slopes of their property, in fact the highest in Penedés, stands the Gewurztraminer vineyard, from whence their elegant, perhaps a touch understated 100% Gewurz comes. A food wine this, one for Indonesian and Chinese cusine (see PS below)! For me the Indigena which is made from 60 year old Garnacha Blanca vines, without any oak, but having had time on its lees with regular stirring, is still developing its creaminess and will be best kept a few months before trying again.

Finally (for now) I tried Electio the Xarel.lo wine fermented in steel but with about five months of French Oak (400 litre barrels) which was a super wine with baked green apples and cream on the nose and an elegant mid-length finish.

PS After a successful first in our series of Ethnic Cuisine and Spanish Wine pairings this week, now is your cahnce to be involved with the next! We are at Restaurante Bajul, Indonesian Cuisine, on Wednesday 16th May, where Chef/Patron Frans is preparing an excellent selection from his menu and I’ll be matching them with some super wines, a different wine for each dish! The cost is only 18€! Please call me to reserve – 629 388 159

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and through his unique wine service website, www.colinharknessonwine.com