Articles – Page 58 – Colin Harkness on Wine

New Year Resolutions

NEW YEAR RESOLUTIONS 2015

I wonder how many of us make New Year Resolutions? I wonder, also, of those of us who do, how many of us keep them, and for how long?

On the whole, I’m one who does make them, and I do try and keep them – though, inevitably some of them fall by the wayside as the year progresses. Usually, the first to go is my annual resolution to keep my office tidy. And, linked closely to this is the one where I promise to visit the bottle bank more regularly!

Imagine the number of bottles of wine I get through each month (and bear in mind here, that I do this selflessly for you, dear reader!) – I sometimes wonder if the refuse collectors (as a student, I used to be one) ever take note of the quality of the wines that have been consumed whose bottles end up in the bottle banks around the area where my house is situated. I’m sure they don’t, but you know what, if it was me, I would! I know, I’m a sad case!

Well, there’s one New Year Resolution that I’ll certainly be keeping this year. My surgeon has dictated that I must do certain exercises before, and after, the two knee replacement operations that I’m expecting (dreading!) in 2015. I didn’t mention to him that, come what may, I’d have to continue with many of the wine related resolutions that I’m about to disclose here. One can give doctors too much information, don’t you think?!

So, for better for worse, for longer or shorter times kept, here are some suggestions re wine resolutions and, as wine is one of my passions, I think I will be able to maintain these throughout the year. Perhaps you’d like to join me in some of them?

Though there are some promising signs, La Crisis still bites here in Spain, so it may be that readers will worry about my first resolution, and of course, I accept that this may not be possible for us all. I’m going to spend a Euro or two more when I buy wine this year.

We’ll be able to see, smell, taste and even, feel, the difference in quality. Trade up a little and you’ll discover there’s so much more to obtain from Spanish wine. Most of us are not just in it for the alcohol and there are aromas and flavours waiting to be discovered!

I’m convinced that having the date of disgorgement visible (and I don’t mean some code that has to be deciphered!) on the back label of Sparkling Wines is an advantage to both the consumer and the producer.

As Cork Talk readers will know, the date when the dead yeast is expelled from the bottle, which has been kept ‘en rima’ in the cellars for at least nine months, is very significant, if we want to drink fizz at its best. Sparkling wine has a shelf life, which is shorter in Spain than in, for example, France, though the disgorgement date is still relevant there too.

When this yeast sediment has been exploded out of the bottle and the sparkling wine is then ready to drink, it will only last, at its best, for a certain length of time. You have about 9 months with the younger sparklers, longer with Reservas and Gran Reservas, but not hugely longer, when the wine can be enjoyed as the winemaker wants you to enjoy it.

However the consumer can only tell how long is left if the date is clearly visible on the label. Obviously this information is important for us, but I believe it’s also crucial for the producer, who will reap the benefits of having his/her fizz always drunk when it’s at its best.

My resolution is therefore to buy exclusively (as far as is possible) sparklers that have this information on their labels, and to ask the retailer why others don’t, and can they demand this from the bodega from whom they buy. Sadly, I know I’ll also have to explain the significance to some retailers (particularly the supermarkets in whom I don’t have much confidence) and that I’ll have to suffer their indignation that I, a foreigner, should suggest something to improve a Spanish product!

I’ll be a pain to them, I know, but if we don’t act, this problem will continue to be a thorn in our otherwise wonderful Spanish Sparkling Wine!

Back to supermarkets and the failure of some of them to put the consumer first. I’m again going to expose those supermarkets that are selling wines when they are past their best. I have written before of the horrors of the dark orange and even brown 5+ years old Rosados that I have seen blatantly offered on supermarket shelves, purely to release space in the warehouse whilst at the same time covering the buyers’ error in buying too many bottles at the time when it was safe to drink them!

It doesn’t just apply to rosados and it doesn’t just apply to one supermarket chain or individual business. Again, I’ll have my work cut out explaining that the best place for such fruitless apologies for wine is down the drain, but I will, and one day they’ll listen.

Please, don’t make me a voice in the wilderness – join the campaign!

I’m going to continue to buy Vino de la Tierra wines. These are the wines which are not Denominación de Origen wines, but which nevertheless often offer excellent quality, and value.

If you look at Spanish wine books from 20+ years ago you’ll see that VdlT wines are effectively described as ‘wannabe DO wines’. I doubt it was ever the case, but it certainly isn’t now. There are really good quality wines that are not DO and yet offer at least as much, and on occasion, more.

My advice is look at the price-tag. It is generally still true that in Spain you receive what you pay for. In other words, in this case, a VdlT wine that is priced at, or above, ‘average’ DO wine prices will deliver just what you want it to. Experiment!

I’m going to continue to seek out eclectic wines, wines from unfamiliar areas of production and wines made from less well known varieties. When I discover good ones, as I surely will, I’ll be letting readers know. You can do the same of course.

I say again – experiment.

Finally, as I’m running out of space – whilst I’m not going to consign my sparkling wine flutes to the bottle banks, I am going to drink more sparkling wine from white wine glasses.

Like most of us, I delight in seeing flutes of fizz and their wonderful, sparkling bubbles seething to the surface, and occasionally even overflowing. It’s all part of the folklore – it speaks of celebration. However the fact is that it is easier to discover the finer aroma and flavour profiles when Sparkling Wine is tasted from a wine glass!

Many thanks for reading me over the last year and I hope you continue to do so! Please note that there will be, as always, various exciting wine related events this year and the best way to hear about these in advance is to join my e-mail list. There’s no charge, of course, and my regular update are as unobtrusive as possible. Please contact me and I’ll add you to the list. Gracias.

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and through www.colinharknessonwine.com and via Twitter @colinonwine

Costa News Top Ten Wines 2014

THE COSTA NEWS TOP TEN WINES 2014

The best ten Spanish wines I’ve tasted this year!

No. 10. Canals & Munné Cava Gran Reserva 2010.

The Gran Reserva 2010 is made with 40% Macabeo, 30% Chardonnay and 30% Parellada. It has clearly benefited from its four years in bottle resting on its lees as the depth of flavour is phenomenal. There are some cavas of this sort of age that have become a little tired, with an off-putting musty granny’s attic aroma. Canals & Munné’s Gran Reserva is the antithesis of this sort of cava. It’s as fresh as if it were years younger, so therefore superb for celebrations and of course aperitifs.

However the time in bottle with its lees, plus the addition of a sizeable proportion of Chardonnay, which was clearly harvested at optimum ripeness, have added an enviable depth and complexity. The wine has typical aromas of sparkling wine, patisserie notes, fresh bread and, from the Macabeo, some reference to an unsweetened apple pastry with a lick of dry cider too. The Chardonnay then comes to the fore, with a buttery, slightly smoky, faintly vanilla aroma and flavour.

No. 9. Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva 2006 DOCa Rioja.

In the glass it’s brick red giving a clue as to its age. On the nose you’ll find tantalising earthy, soft red fruit aromas – sniff out loganberry and raspberry with perhaps some not quite ripe strawberry acidity to keep the wine fresh! You’ll also find some herbs, understated rosemary, slightly more prominent thyme underpinned with enveloping bay leaf and some smoky oak.

But it’s on the palate where the wine really excels (as if the above wasn’t quite enough!) it’s delicate and yet full with lasting fruit flavours kept alive by a refreshing acidic lick and a long, long finish. Wow, I loved this wine!

No. 8. Colet Clàssic Penedés Assemblage Brut Sparkling Wine.

This very, very lightly rosé coloured wine is the result of the gentle pressing of the black grape Pinot Noir, which makes up 55% of the blend. The rest is made up by Chardonnay, coming from one specific, terroir favoured vineyard.

Whilst not wanting to appear a wannabe Champagne one cannot avoid the similarities. It’s a super, full and elegant wine that looks so appealing in the glass. On the nose there are faint strawberry elements mixing with aromas of the pasteleria as you pass its open door first thing in the morning. Elegant, yes, but that doesn’t mean delicate. Its 30 months en rima have given it structure, some power, a mouth-filling presence and a lovely slightly creamy finish.

No. 7. Torre Galimany 2010 Cava Gran Reserva.

Sensational Sparkling Wine, exemplary Gran Reserva Cava! A wonderful aroma with white flowers and brioche and a super freshness. Though full and rich it still has elegance in abundance as well as an acidic lift to retain its freshness. There’s a light earthiness to the wine that contributes to the body and makes a good match with mushrooms and meat. Plus, the typical yeasty character derived from the second fermentation along with that floral aroma and faint apple and pear, make this a wine to savour.

No. 6. Casa Don Ángel Bobal DO Utiel-Requena.

A classic Bobal wine crafted with loving care by my friend Felix who has managed to embody not only the natural characteristics of the variety, but also a sense of place too. Made from grapes, twice selected from 100+ years old vines, the wine has been aged for a total of 18 months in American and French oak – for added depth of flavour and complexity.

Typical black cherry notes are complemented by peppery spice, a slight cinnamon nuance and a certain terroir-led minerality. In the mouth it is rich and full and yet elegant too. Its 93 Peñin points puts it firmly in Gold Medal position, which is confirmed by its listing in the Proensa Guide’s 500 Best Wines in Spain!

No. 5. Fino de El Puerto de Santa María En Rama DO Jerez.

I urge you to try the En Rama style sherry that is becoming so popular – this is exemplary.

Very pale gold in colour, the aromas that escape when pouring are seductive. You’ll find a touch of saltiness, bone dry, rounded, with balanced, almost measured, acidity and such depth, complexity and length. Drink it with pan-fried slightly salted almonds, Jamón Serrano, Semi and Curado hard Manchego cheeses, and of course, just by itself! Excellent!

No. 4. Quincha Corral 2011 Pago El Terrerazo.

It has an abundance of dark cherry fruit coming from the 100% 40 years old Bobal vines, with an appealing black pepper spiciness. It’s powerful, yet subtle and elegant. Its rich fruit emanates from Bobal vines planted in 1945 on the bodega’s most prized vineyard. Black cherry fruit, and bags of it, with fully integrated tobacco and coconut oak notes. It’s rich, full and rounded – concentrated and structured in a way that will see the wine unwind over the next five years to be drinking perfectly for a further five years and more.

No. 3. Belondrade & Lurton Verdejo DO Rueda.

Superb dry white wine. The 100% Verdejo has been fermented and aged for 10 months in French Oak and then for a further 5 – 6 months in bottle, before its release onto the market. I love this style of Verdejo – you have all the fruit and slightly vegetal characteristics of young wines made with this variety, but with an added dimension of grapefruit, a touch of smokiness and a great depth of flavour.

No. 2. Quest 2012 DO Costers del Segre.

Quest is made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot fermented entirely in ancient stone vats hewn out of the mountainside! The 2012 is still young, vibrant in its blackcurrant, blackberry and dark plum fruit, a delight on the palate with no slightly unripe harshness as can be the case with some young wines from the two Cabernets’ home, Bordeaux.

You’ll find some vanilla and a touch of cloves on the nose which is wholly integrated with the succulent fruit when the wine hits the palate. It’s a lovely juicy wine but with a backbone of mature tannin, acidity and wonderful mineral notes that will ensure that it ages for probably five years and more. Deeply flavoured, structured, complex wine!

No. 1. Blecua 2007 DO Somontano.

The Costa News best wine of 2014, Blecua 2007, is made with the best bunches of hand harvested Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Garnacha and Tempranillo selected from the oldest vineyards. Then a further selection takes place in the bodega! Each variety is fermented separately in 18,000 litre French Oak ‘foudres’.

There follows a 12 month period where the wine is aged separately in new French oak barrels. After this time only the finest barrels are selected to blend together for a further eight months in oak to make the final wine. And what a wine! Magnificent! Proensa 96; Peñin 94; Harkness 99!

Firm but gentle tannin, all dark bramble and blackcurrant fruit with earthy notes. Fascinating complexity with layers of pleasure including fruit of course, but also mountain herbs, bay leaf and thyme, a faint touch of dark chocolate, but not in any way bitter, a very slight smoked finely chopped coconut and rich fullness that seems to go on forever! Wonderful wine!

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com. Twitter @colinonwine. Also please regularly visit www.colinharknessonwine.com for all Spanish Wine news and lots more!

Non-Catalan Cava

IT’S CAVA, JIM, AND JUST AS WE KNOW IT!

Dear Reader,

Trekkie or not, you know where I’m coming from here – don’t be coy, admit it!

And the relevance to the weekly wine column, you might be asking? Well, the clue is in the name, Cava, Spain’s most famous Sparkling Wine. Approximately 95% of all Cava is made in Cataluña – that’s millions of bottles per annum. And if it’s stats that you’re after, here’s another – roughly 50% of the annual production of Cava is sold over the Christmas period! That’s a staggering amount of Cava for a myriad of celebrations up and down the country, as well as abroad.

However, this week’s column is in support of the underdog, the other 5%. The British are traditionally on the side of the underdog: David, rather than Goliath; Wimbledon’s bottom seed, rather than the top; the ‘also-ran’ before the bookies favourite; and of course Man Utd when playing Liverpool! We are a fountain of sympathy and empathy – but in the case of Cava’s minnows, the producers who are not making their bubbles in Cataluña, there’s no need to be sympathetic.

The 5% are doing very nicely thank you – at least in terms of the quality of their produce. It may well be (probably is) that those who craft their Cavas away from Cataluña, are envious of their big brother’s fame, success and of course, their huge volume sales. But their plea is not for your sympathy, it’s for your attention, for you to divert your purchasing power towards them as well!

The DO Cava is an unusual one in that it is not just in one geographical area where Cava is allowed to be made, like it is for example in: DOCa Rioja, DO Ribera del Duero, DO Jumilla et al. Cava can also be made, in fact, in La Rioja, as well as Cariñena, Valencia and even in Extremadura – which is just about as far away from Cataluña as you can be, whilst remaining in Spain.

However, the non-Catalan Cavas are, in almost every way, the same as those that we can term Catalan Cavas. The same grapes are permitted, the rules and regulations set down by the Consejo Regulador (Regulatory Committee) are the same, and the same stringent quality control measures are applied. The only differences (and yes, it is a significant difference) are the soils and micro-climates.

However, this is positive – think instead of the diversity of flavours and aromas that are thus obtainable by drinking non-Catalan Cava. Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux is different from Chilean Cabernet, Italian Cabernet and so on. To coin a phrase, ‘Vive la Diference!’

In fact the first non-Catalan Cavas I received were from my old friends at Bodegas Muga, that world-wide respected producer of fine Rioja Wines. I find their Rosado Brut Cava quite enchanting. The colour is that of Billecart-Salmon Rosé Champagne (a favourite French Fizz of mine) and very similar to Muga’s delicately pale still rosado wine.

Conde de Haro Brut Rosé has lovely pink and red rose petals on the nose with raspberry too. On the palate, the depth of flavour takes one by surprise – it’s delicate and elegant, and yet full flavoured too. Drink this with Paella – it will be a knock-out!

Muga’s white Conde de Haro Vintage 2011 Brut has a super nose of white flowers, pear and a touch of cider, rather than citrus notes (see what I mean about diversity!) along with the unmistakable lovely aromas of your Mum’s baking. It’s a Brut, but one of the drier styles, making it a lovely aperitif as well as being fine with fish!

Next of the non-Catalan Cavas I received were from the Cariñena area. Many readers will know of the Gran Ducay, DO Cariñena, wines. Well-priced fruit driven still wines that are as easy to drink, as they are to find. Their Cavas, though not so readily available, are just as pleasant to drink and will get any party off to a good start!

The first point to note here is the value for money. The Rosado Gran Ducay, made with Garnacha and so pretty in the glass, retails for around 6€; and the Reserva Brut Nature for under 8€! Both embody the essence of Cava, the celebratory nature of the drink, with the reserve adding some depth on the palate which will make it a lovely fizz to accompany various different dishes.

Extremadura is a considerable distance from Cataluña. The Cava making area is centred around Almendralejo, slightly south and east of Badajoz and therefore not so far from Portugal. Although some way from the sea the huge expanse of, not the Mediterranean, but the Atlantic Ocean does impact on the climate, as do the soils of the Cava vineyards that are at a somewhat greater altitude than most of those in the Cataluña area.

Accordingly the Cavas I’ve tasted, from Bodegas Marcelino Díaz, have a slight difference too, with flavours and aromas ranging from chilli through to toffee apple! Fascinating – and I recommend you seek them out!

The distinctive leaf motif on the label of the first, a Brut Reserva, will make it stand out on the shelves of the wine shop, and if the proprietor opens a bottle, the aromas that assail the customer (in the nicest possible way!) will surely make him/her demand a taste! You’ll find a compelling, if faint whiff of chilli, then some herbs – a little sage, some thyme and a little wild fennel.

Just as you take a taste, you’ll smell a cider-esque fragrance, which follows onto the palate turning to under-ripe apple pie and finishing with the forgotten flavour (perhaps more aroma) of toffee apple! Wow!

From the same stable Cava of the bodega, Puerto Palma has slightly sweet-scented white flowers on the nose, followed by hazelnuts on the palate and perhaps blanched almonds. It has some weight on the palate with a roundness that provides a mid-length finish.

I knew before I tasted it, that Cava Chozas Carrascal Reserva Brut Nature was going to be a very good sparkling wine! As the cork was gently eased out (the antithesis of post-F1 Champagne opening! Why?!) the wine began to speak to me already. There was an instant floral, biscuit nose that, genie-like, escaped and immediately enticed me!

The Macabeo makes an immediate impact – the apple, slightly cider style aromas are a give away. Here the autolysis aromas, pleasant smells that are produced by the reaction to the second fermentation, are particularly biscuity, rather than bread, brioche and pastry. It reminded me of digestive biscuits, but with a very faint, exotic ginger spice as well.

Full, and it’s here that the Chardonnay makes its contribution, weighty with a mid to long length, the wine has elegance too. The still wines from this bodega, situated in-land from Valencia, in the Utiel/Requena area, are sought after and this Cava is certainly up there with the best!

NB The above are just a few of the Cavas that you can find that are not from Cataluña – my advice, experiment with more!

Contact Colin: colin@colinharknessonwine.com and Twitter @colinonwine; & visit www.colinharknessonwine.com – and of course you can join his e-mail list for updates on wine tastings, bodega visits etc!

The Christmas Wish List

THE WISH LIST!

SPANISH WINES FOR CHRISTMAS 2014

Yes, I know, it seems a bit late in the day to me, too – but this article, recommending wines to be served with the Christmas Dinner, available at best just six days before the big event, is a response to readers’ comments and requests!

A number of readers have said that in previous years my recommendations, published a few weeks in advance of Christmas, have been lost, along with the rest of whichever of the Costa News Group’s four main English language newspapers they regularly purchase, before they’ve had the time to go and buy them! I guess that those who buy the papers (about 150,000 of us each week) don’t naturally think of referring to the internet (www.costa-news.com click Cork Talk) where recent articles are all archived.

So if this is perfect timing for you, I’m pleased – if, it’s a little late, my apologies, but blame the others, willya!

The opening celebratory/ice-breaking/aperitif/starter wine, at that rate, an almost catch-all wine, just has to be a sparkler! But which one? A Cava from Cataluña, a Cava from one of the other zones permitted to make Cava, or a Spanish Sparkling Wine, other than Cava! What a wonderful, if difficult, choice!

This has been a very difficult decision for me to make – I love Spanish Sparkling Wine, in practically all its forms (almost all of the sweet styles, are not for me) and this year in particular I’ve tasted more than ever before. I’ve been lucky enough to try young, Reserva and Gran Reserva Cavas in the natural home of Cava, Cataluña; as well as those styles, but from outside of this zone.

I’ve also had great pleasure in tasting sparkling wine from Cataluña that is not, in fact Cava, as well as wonderful fizz from several different parts of Spain. Tough call – but in the end, for this Christmas 2014, I’ve gone for the sparkling wine that has delighted me more (albeit, marginally more) than all the others.

You are certain to impress your guests as well as yourself with Albet i Noya’s Brut Barrica 21 Reserva 3, Clàssic Penedés Sparkling Wine. It is simply stunning!

The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (the mainstays of Champagne) which make up the cuvée have been fermented for three weeks in French (Alliers) oak which, on opening, gives rise to the tantalising initial aromas of caramel and butterscotch which quickly make room for the traditional panaderia Sparkling Wine aromas of brioche as well as Danish pastry notes, with a citrus and heady floral suggestion too.

On the palate the wine is rich, voluminous, weighty and yet, elegant and subtle. You’ll find a tight acidity which keeps the wine fresh even after its 36 months ageing on its lees, En Rima, in the depths of the cellars. This ageing, which in Cava terms would qualify it as a Gran Reserva (Clàssic Penedès has different regulations), ensures a depth and complexity that is not normally found in many Sparkling Wines.

The oldest vines harvested for this outstanding Sparkling Wine are not yet 25 years of age so we can expect even more opulence, complexity and depth in future vintages. With only 6 grams of residual sugar it’s one of the drier Bruts, and all the better for it. Perfectly crafted, wonderful fizz, which you can happily pair with many dishes, including meat!

I’m taking you back to Cataluña for my white wine selection, in fact to a much vaunted Cava producer, Canals & Munné. However, whilst I love their Cavas, I’m recommending one of their still wines this year.

The still wine production, red, rosado and white, is somewhat in the shadow of Canals & Munné’s world famous Cavas, but it shouldn’t be, as there are excellent wines within this portfolio.

My favourite of the still wines (though it was very close, with both this wine and one of their red wines achieving the same scores) was their Gran Blanc Princeps Xarel.lo Fermentado en Barrica 2013.

For me, Xarel.lo is the new Chardonnay. It’s everyone’s friend as it can be fresh and fruity, more citrus than Chardonnay-esque exotic, with white floral and nutty notes too. Plus, like Chardonnay, it can take on very different flavours and aromas when oak is used in its elaboration, as with this wine. Either way, you’ll have a wine that is aromatic, quite deeply, to deeply flavoured, rounded and rich, with elegance too.

It’s the depth of flavour and the elegance of this FB (fermented in barrel) wine that I find most enchanting – a style that I can just go on drinking until the bottle is finished! It’s also a style that will sit wonderfully well with starters and, for those who prefer white wine to red with their turkey, it will pair perfectly with the main event!

As you might imagine, this being a country where there are so many excellent red wines, there was a plethora of real quality wines from which to choose the red wine that I am recommending for Christmas Dinner 2014.

Ultimately I had to choose just one. Acusp 2012 is made with 100% Pinot Noir! Unfortunately one doesn’t have much of a chance to taste good, and above, Pinot Noir in Spain. In Burgundy, it’s wonderful – rich but always with great elegance. It needs a cold climate really. But, with the average 1,000 metres altitude at which the vines are situated and the high density planting of Bodegas Castell D’Encus’ (DO Costers del Segre) Pinot Noir vineyard, the aroma and flavour profiles required of this demanding variety can be emulated.

It has a lovely silk negligee feel, with ripe, but not over-ripe, strawberries on the palate slowly overcoming the earthy forest leaves aroma. It’s juicy in the mouth and the fruit makes a presence throughout, but there are layers of flavour and a depth of pleasure as well as thought provoking complexity. The personification of elegance, this wine has everything!

I’m going to Jerez, for my final choice, the wine to accompany Christmas Pudding/Cake/Mince Pies, though I’m not, this time at least, going to recommend a Sweet PX (Pedro Ximénez) Sherry. But it’s close.

Lustau East India Cream Sherry is mahogany coloured and is one of the finest examples of this sherry style, so popular in the UK. It’s made by blending aged sweet sherry, made with the PX, and equally aged dry Oloroso made from the Palomino variety, the most widely used grape in Jerez.

It is then returned to large wooden casks and kept in the hot and humid atmosphere of the ‘sacrista’, the cellar – in a successful attempt to replicate the conditions under which the sherry casks of the 16^th Century would have been kept whilst lashed to the decks during its voyage from Spain to the Americas! The resulting wine has an extraordinary smooth, deep and complex character.

It’s sweet and rich with raison notes on the palate and nose and some coffee liqueur hints with a dash of caramel on the finish. A truly excellent finale to a wonderful feast!

Merry Christmas!

Don’t forget you can hear about all the wine related events I organise by simply being on my e-mail list – plus there are some exciting developments which will be read first by those on the list. There’s no charge, of course, and it’s so easy – just send me an e-mail and I’ll add your name and e-mail address! colin@colinharknessonwine.com

Also don’t forget to regularly visit www.colinharknessonwine.com + you can follow me on Twitter @colinonwine