WHEN THE LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL ISN’T A GOOD THING!
LIGHT STRIKE
“Light strike is a scandal and we all need to do something about it. It is the biggest wine fault, yet the least talked about.”, Peter Richards MW
To my generation and possibly to the subsequent: Generation X, Millennial Generation and Generation Z (yes, I’m that old!), such a title, Light Strike, would be at home in one of those arcades that our Mum’s told us to avoid – which, of course, made us do the opposite. Perhaps Millennials, but certainly Z-ers would be more likely to see it as the title of a new Video Game – you know the ones their parents (us!) would try (and fail) to discourage, in favour of, well, you know, getting out more!
However, in this case, Light Strike, is a reference to what is apparently becoming an increasing problem in the wine sector.
The word ‘strike’ has a mostly negative taste to it – three ‘strikes’ and you’re out, in the Baseball World (wholly irrelevant, but interesting nonetheless – I’ve never understood why the Americans call their game ‘The World Series’ when, in reality, it’s only played in the USA; perhaps simply because, they’re Americans?); a strike at a factory is negative, certainly to management and owners; and in the past tense the legal term ‘struck with a blunt object’ tells its own very negative story!
And so it is here, too. Light Strike in the wine world means the damage that is done to a wine when subjected to light, be that sunlight or artificial light in supermarkets, wine shops as well as in our own homes. This damage manifests itself in a scale (worsening according to how long the wine has been subjected to the light source) from making the wine muted, less characterful than it should be; to giving the wine unpleasant overcooked vegetable-like aromas, sometimes cabbage and broccoli – even, and here we get to the very bottom (pun intended, though childishly disgusting, I admit!) sewer-like.
In fact this scale is a problem in itself. Who is to say that a wine being less characterful than we’d like is down to light strike and not just to poor wine making, industrial production, over-cropping juvenile vines etc? Therefore, identification of the problem can be difficult, that is until you arrive at the other end of the scale and notice those unwanted vegetal aromas (or worse – see above!). How many of us have dismissed a wine as being simply poor, when it may be because it has suffered “daylight robbery!”*
Its effect can be minimised simply by putting the wine in an opaque container, tetra-packs are ideal in this sense, although aesthetically not so pleasing. So, coloured bottles, as opposed to clear glass works too.
Well, if the solution were that simple what’s the problem – simply ensure that all wine is in coloured bottles (for some reason, known to somebody no doubt, but not to me) amber is the best colour, though my simple mind would think the darker the better, therefore green or brown would be best? However, more and more producers are bottling their wines in clear glass, despite the facts – and the warnings.
Apparently rosé wine suffers most from light strike. One of the beauties of rosé wine is its colour. These days most rosé produced is that delightful pale shade, championed by Provence, of course, but if you are prepared to search you can find rosés in all the possible different shades of pink. Of course, we know this because we can see each shade perfectly – because they’re so often bottled in clear glass!
I would suggest that the first fault to register when under attack from light strike (which means immediately it’s released from the, hopefully, dark cellar) is the very colour we are admiring. Over a period of time, and studies have suggested that this can be as short as a matter of only several days, the cellar shade (the colour the wine is at the moment of bottling) will change. It won’t necessarily become an unpleasant colour straight away, in fact it’s unlikely to change that much, but change it will.
What can we do about it? Well, not much really – except maybe buy only wines that are in coloured glass bottles? I must admit the Light Strike concept has impacted my wine buying since I researched this article.
Over to you!
Acknowledgements:
Circle of Wine Writers (CWW)
Peter Richards MW
Liz Sagues
Dr. Jamie Goode
Susie Barrie* MW
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WINE TOURISM
BODEGAS ENRIQUE MENDOZA, ALFAZ del PÍ, ALICANTE PROVINCE
I’m often asked about wine tourism here in Spain. My first experience of it (though in those days it wasn’t really a concept and didn’t even have a name) was a visit to a bodega whose name I’ll leave out – to protect the guilty – tagged onto a coach trip. In fact it was a disaster, laughably so, but it made me think – I can do better than this. Eventually I did.
My small travel agency, Tin Lizzie Tours, started with a view to taking English speaking ex-pats on cultural tours, often had a bodega visit included in the itinerary. Soon they became so popular that the bodega tour was the main part of the tour, often the only part. I had an advantage, of course, my ever-expanding knowledge of wine generally, and Spanish wine in particular, added value. Tin Lizzie Tours became the go-to in my area.
I’m not sure how many bodegas I visited during my travel agency days, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it was around the 100 mark. Consequently, I became at least very experienced, at best, an expert. I was in it before it became officially known as Enoturismo, when plastic picnic cups were sometimes used to offer wines (I very soon put them right on that!) and when some unsuspecting employee was given the unenviable job of taking people around the winery explaining all etc.
Initially it couldn’t have even been called a fledgling business but, the canny producers eventually became aware that there was real potential here. Sometime along the line La Crisis happened and Enoturismo for the expats living in Spain became a necessity for wineries that were determined to survive the harsh economic realities of those dark times. Owners who were able to think out of the box developed separate departments within bodegas, specialist staff were appointed and trained, English speakers were at a premium. Great times.
So, I guess I’m a pretty useful bloke to ask about wine tourism and I’m happy to advise. Always, when I receive such a request regarding where to go in the Marina Alta area I tell them firstly about Bodegas Enrique Mendoza – there is no finer tour and tasting in our area! There are others, all very good and, of course, offering their own, different wines, but I honestly believe that there are none better than Enrique Mendoza.
My sister-in-law Nicky and husband, Richard came to stay recently. They are always so kind, welcoming and generous to us when we stay with them, as we quite often do, so we wanted to spoil them. Like us, they have a keen interest in food – and wine. So, what better than to book a tour and tasting at Bodegas Enrique Mendoza?
When I contacted the bodega I wasn’t sure if my friend from several years ago would still be there, but yes, Marta still looks after the wine tourism side of the business. I was delighted, of course. Not only is Marta the consummate professional making everything tick, she is also very personable always welcoming visitors with a warm smile.
She introduced us to our guide, Alicia, a chip off the old block in terms of smiling charm coupled with professionalism and of course, a sound knowledge of wine generally, as well as specifically Bodegas Enrique Mendoza. Our group of four was part of a total of about 20 people – the ideal number for us all to be able to hear that which was being said and to provide some interesting interaction, plus, there was enough space for us all in the tasting room at the end of the tour!
I won’t reveal here the history, the details and the insider info described so eloquently by Alicia, as this will take something from the tour for when readers decide to go – and I urge you to do just that! However, an idea as to what you will see and how it all works will not give away any secrets, I believe.
We started, as always, in the small vineyard in front of the bodega buildings. Here grows Moscatel, I think – one of the indigenous varieties that can cope with the very hot growing conditions. As with many areas of the world climate change is impacting the land here, just outside Alfaz del Pí where each year recently temperatures have been rising, hours of sunshine too, whilst rainfall is lessening. It’s a tough time, but up to a point. Moscatel can cope. And, because of their proximity to the Mediterranean and the minimal altitude above sea level there’s a micro-climate here giving the grapes a certain uniqueness that transfers to the finished wine. It’s a special, small vineyard – with some secrets too!
We then moved to the inside, looking at the bottling line. Still and silent at the time of our visit it can handle a large number of bottles per hour. The bottles, clean as well as sanitized, move along on the conveyor belt where they are filled with whichever of the several different wines made here, from eleven different varieties of grapes. It’s here that the labels are stuck on, the corks inserted, the foils cover the corks and the bottles are then boxed. It’s so efficient and very interesting to watch, though when working, a trifle noisy too!
Other areas of the inside of the bodega are covered as well – again, I won’t reveal too much, but one of these special rooms has an exhibition of the cork that is used exclusively here at Enrique Mendoza. No plastic bottle stoppers nor screwtops here as this family business believes that the natural way is the best. This belief is carried out in the vineyards too, where the fields are worked organically.
The tour lasts about one and a half hours – it’s very interesting and flashes by. But, of course, one of the best parts is the tasting after the tour and I have to say that this is a very generous tasting. We tasted seven different wines – now that’s a lot, so I’d advise electing a nominated driver who doesn’t take onboard any of the wine. Or of course, use taxis!
The wines we tasted were varied in terms of their styles, but not their quality. Well, that’s rather obvious really, Enrique Mendoza doesn’t make also-ran wines, you’ll see when you visit that the whole programme here is about quality.
I won’t give you my exhaustive tasting notes for all the wines – too long and anyway it may be that when you go some of the wines will be different? In front of each taster there is an impressive plate of small tapas described by your guide and designed to pair nicely with each different wine. You’ll be advised which is best with each wine. Included here also is the Pepe Mendoza Extra Virgin Olive Oil – I usually buy a bottle of this too!
We started with a young Chardonnay, poured incidentally from an impressive magnum bottle (that’s two normal 75 cl bottle’s worth!) Floral notes with pears on the palate. Another magnum was used for the pale rosado, a little closed at first, but opening out with rose petal fragrance and some soft red fruit notes too.
The first red was a Monastrell/Merlot blend, young but with a little time in French oak – this is one of those red wines that can be served chilled. Think BBQ in the Spanish Summer! Finca Xaconero was the next red, a Monastrell monovarietal with an interesting story behind it.
The final three were all reds too and right out of the top draw. Enrique Mendoza doesn’t want you to taste just the more economic wines. Santa Rosa and Quebradas are two of the three flagship wines of this bodega – and you don’t get just a small pour either!
The final red is, for most people, quite a surprise. In fact, they are quite prevalent in this area of SE Spain, but in the rest of the wine world you don’t often find red dessert wines. This delicious Monastrell with some time in oak is a fine example. Think cheese, also chocolate, also other desserts.
So, when you are next asked if you know of any wine tours – you know what to say!
