News from the vine!
Todo el equipo de Cuscó Berga, te felicita por tus artículos . . .
Todo el equipo de Cuscó Berga, te felicita por tus artículos, el mundo necesita conocimiento y personas expertas en el mundo del Vino como Colin.
Buen trabajo.
All cava producers start out as makers of still wine first . . .
THE STILL BEFORE THE FIZZ!
All cava producers start out as makers of still wine first. Short of buying in still wines made by another producer (a practice that I haven’t actually heard of and one that I’m not sure would be permitted anyway, though I do know of at least one producer who does the reverse – makes the still wines and asks another to finish the fizz) how would they come by their base wines?
It’s the base wines that are the obvious prerequisite of all sparkling wines. The second fermentation, provoked by the addition of sugar and yeast, can only take place if there are already been a first fermentation! This is the making of the still wines that are to form the base for the sparklers to come.
Such wines are generally far too acidic to be be drunk simply as still wines – their purpose has already been decided. It’s this often quite fierce acidity that will eventually mellow sufficiently to provide the freshness of the finished fizz during the sparkling wine process.
So, it’s clear that the principles of still wine making are well known to all Cava producers and if this is the case, then why not adapt the still wine making procedure to make, not harshly acidic wines, but easily drinkable, aromatic, full flavoured still wines? This will of course provide the producer with another market as well as increasing cash flow to tide them over during the long process required to make cava, where the wines are left to develop in the cellars, bringing in nothing to the coffers until their release.
Now, bear in mind my last article (archived here www.colinharknessonwine.com click Articles) about Bodegas Cuscó Berga one of whose cavas, for example (the excellent, gold medal winning, Gran Reserva, rests in the cellars for a full four years, earning precisely nothing, and you’ll see how crucial are still wines for the cava houses!
Bodegas Cuscó Berga’s still wine portfolio is not large, it majors in Cava after all, but it’s good, also earning medals and plaudits too. I tasted three offerings – a white, a rosado and a Crianza red.
Different commentators find different, sometimes contrasting, attributes in wines and indeed in grape varieties. Different aromas, flavours etc – it’s a bit baffling I know, but it’s all part of the mystique of wine! (Incidentally if you’d like to know more about the methodology of wine tasting, the way the professionals do when they are just starting off you might like to go to http://avinawinetools.com/ebook-wine-drinking-tips/ and download the E-Book that I wrote for my pal David of Avina Wine Accessories – you’ll be asked to supply your e-mail aiddress, but don’t worry, I’ve done it and you don’t suddenly become inundated with sales pitches!).
For me, Xarel.lo, the variety of choice for Cuscó Berga’s white still wine, and also, of course, one of the three most commonly used in Cava, provides body, fullness and richness – presence in a wine, in a rather Chardonnay-esque way. This attribute, often found in cavas that have a high proportion of Xarel.lo in the blend, like Champagnes made with more Chardonnay.
This attribute is understated in the Cuscó Berga Xarel.lo Selecció. There’s a slight nutty aroma, blanched rather than roasted, with a little jasmine fragrance. It’s not overly fruity on the nose or the palate, but it does have some body and good acidity. I’d enjoy this wine with some seafood salads and fish dishes, as well as a simple white to serve for a nice drink!
Their Merlot Selecció Rosado 2015 is another monovarietal made with the French variety Merlot, though some distance away from its natural habitat, the great vineyards of Bordeaux! It’s a chameleon of a wine, sending out mixed, and therefore all the more interesting, messages to the taster!
On the palate it has and immediate fruit-sweet quality, as well as some weight. However as one is about to conclude that it’s an off-dry rosado there suddenly arrives an acidic lift which makes one reassess. Then, just as quickly the ripe, soft red fruits that are noticed on the nose, are morphed into, initially, early picked strawberries, the day the local – ‘Pick Your Own’ farm first opens its doors, and then underpinned with a rich raspberry compote!
Add this to the fruit laden finish with another refreshing acidic note as you finally swallow, and you have something of a conundrum! But don’t worry, just enjoy it – particularly, for me, with the sometimes slightly sweet Chinese cuisine, as well as salmon roasted with Indonesian style sauces.
Finally, the Bodegas Cuscó Berga Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend (talking of Bordeaux!) is a Crianza, where the different varieties are fermented separately, aged in oak barrels for 18 months (quite a time for a Crianza, as the minimum by law is 6 months), and then blended before bottling.
There’s a slight menthol note on the edge of the blackcurrant fruit, with a little vanilla and a slight reference to coconut coming from the barrels. The wine is at once easy to drink and yet complex and deeply flavoured enough for it to be complementary to meat dishes, grills, BBQs and for me, super with a casserole, where the wine’s good fruit delivery will enhance the flavour of the sauce. In fact, if you can spare it, why not use a little of the wine when cooking?! (www.cuscoberga.com where they’ll be able to tell you where you can buy their wines as well as give you info about their wine tourism possibilities).
Saturday 19th November I’m presenting a special pairing event – Japanese Cuisine (hot and cold) with selected Spanish Wines – plus wonderful music from soprano Claire-Marie (www.clairemarie.es [website unfinished but you’ll get the idea!]). Price – just 25€!!
Just e-mail colin@colinharknessonwine.com to reserve!
It can be argued, indeed proven, that Tinta de Toro is one of many aliases for perhaps the most famous red wine grape variety in Spain, Tempranillo . . .
VARIATIONS ON TWO THEMES
Theme No. 1 – philosophy Theme No. 2 – grape variety
In a Cork Talk a couple of months ago, entitled Botas del Barro, and archived here: https://www.colinharknessonwine.com/articles/page/2/ (scroll down to Botas Del Barro), I alluded to the new wine distribution company, Paladar Español/Spanish Palate. www.spanishpalate.es
Co-founded by Nicola Thornton, a Sheffield lass, who has created quite a storm here in the wine world of Spain, Spanish Palate has an admirable philosophy. They have tasted their way across the length and breadth of Spain seeking out boutique bodegas whose wines, often of a limited production, reflect the terroir of their vineyards, allowing the characteristics of the varieties used to fully express themselves. These are wines with soul, made by passionate winemakers, and are always at a high quality level.
I’ve been lucky enough to receive several samples from a number of the bodegas in the Spanish Palate portfolio and have started the arduous (not!) task of tasting them. First up is the series of wines under the Rompesedas banner, from DO Toro.
I decided to start with Toro wines as this is where Nicola has been based for most of her time in Spain (well, sort of – as a much traveled Export Director, there are few countries of the world where she hasn’t been). Without intending to, she has become probably the best ambassador for Toro wines there could ever be, so it was with absolute confidence that I started tasting these Rompesedas wines, which are all made with the same grape variety – Tinta de Toro.
Yes, the second theme on which there are variations.
It can be argued, indeed proven, that Tinta de Toro is one of many aliases for perhaps the most famous red wine grape variety in Spain, Tempranillo. However, taste a monovarietal Tinta de Toro from, well, Toro, claro; against a Tempranillo from, for example, Rioja, and your senses of smell and taste, for sure, will detect differences. Tinta de Toro is a grape variety that has become distinctly Toro, and, when handled correctly, it will speak of its place, of its terroir.
The Rompesedas wines I tried were all made with Tinta de Toro. First up was Rompesedas 2014 Los Lastros, and a fascinating start to the tasting, as this wine, a joven, gives the taster an opportunity to taste the pure fruit without the, at times lengthy, barrel aging of the following wines. As one would expect, this young red wine is as fruit filled as your grandmother’s pies! It’s a pure pleasure, easy drinking, wine, redolent of light and dark red fruit. I picked out a little light cherry character with some blackberry backup.
Rompesedas 6 Months 2013, as you might have guessed, has had six months in oak, French and American. The vines that contributed to this wine are 100 years old, and yet still produce fruit packed wine. The colour has darkened, the flavour developed, both with the extra year and the integrated oak influence, and the aroma has changed too.
You’ll find a little backbone behind the fruit, a little complexity and, whilst remaining a wine to simply drink and enjoy on its own, it is also moving nicely into the realms of wine with food. Balanced and with a slight creamy note coming from its lees.
Rompesedas 2009 18 months, has the above, but more so! It’s a single vineyard wine, the vines again being centenarians. There’s a greater use of French oak and this seems to make the wine more subtle, more complex. Still juicy, we have cherries again here, but much darker – this goes with the deeper colour too. There’s a touch of spice and a tannic grip on the finish that demands a meat course!
I found the 2008 to be similar in every respect to the 2009, I’m not sure I would have spotted the difference of a year. Perhaps this is because the weather during the growing seasons was similar – certainly the way the wine had been made was the same.
However, the 2007, was even more of a delight, albeit a year older again. This wine has developed brilliantly – in every sense of the word! It’s bright in the glass, defying its nine years of age in looks, and also on the palate. It’s a wonderfully vibrant wine, rich and silky, full and elegant too. There are more dark fruits, black cherry with ripe blackberry and there’s an earthy aroma, flavour and even feel, to the wine. Some faint cinnamon spice, a little vanilla and used leather, with a trail of herbs running through its layers. Lovely.
Having to choose between Messi and Neymar, is not a bad dilemma to have and here I’ve gone with Finca Las Parvas 2006 as probably my favourite of the flight. It’s enjoyed 22 months in French oak following its fermentation in new French 500 litre oak. There’s a difference here – the barrel fermentation seems to have benefited the texture of the wine as well as adding an extra level of flavour and complexity. There’s a noticeable earthy minerality with almost ephemeral whiffs of bay leaf and thyme. More blackberry than black cherry it’s juicy fruity, mellow but with attitude and has a long finish!
NB I’m presenting a super Wine/Tapas/Music Pairing at Palau de Javea on Thurs. 27th October. For more details and to reserve please e-mail colin@colinharknessonwine.com
Well, the same applies here in Spain, not with Champagne of course, but with Cava. The larger cava producers certainly have their own vineyards, but the production is so vast, and demand so huge, that they have to buy in more grapes to make up the shortfall. Plus, of course, there are also Grower Cavas, whose wholly ‘hands-on and total control’ approach can often be to the consumer’s advantage . . .
GROWER CAVAS
There’s quite a lot of talk in wine circles at the moment, about Grower Champagnes. These are Champagnes made usually by small (the current buzzword is ’boutique’) producers who own their own vineyards, in the officially protected area of Champagne, of course.
Usually such ‘growers’ have held the vineyards for generations and often have simply looked after the vines and their annual production of approved Champagne grapes, to be sold to the larger players. Perhaps the new incumbent has a more entrepreneurial bent, and decides to make his/her own Champagne. Or, maybe, the small family owned holding has in fact always preferred to work solely for themselves, albeit that the expense can be crippling, and of course it’s all done at the mercy of the weather. Though this last problem applies throughout the agricultural world!
Well, the same applies here in Spain, not with Champagne of course, but with Cava. The larger cava producers certainly have their own vineyards, but the production is so vast, and demand so huge, that they have to buy in more grapes to make up the shortfall. Plus, of course, there are also Grower Cavas, whose wholly ‘hands-on and total control’ approach can often be to the consumer’s advantage.
I first came across the Cavas of Cuscó Berga when reading through the impressive glossy ’50 Great Cavas 2016′ publication (well worth buying http://www.winepleasures.com/50-great-cavas/ ). Two Gold medals and a Silver, places all three Cuscó Berga cavas within the 50 Great Cavas of 2016 – now that’s a good starting point!
Plus, a visit to the Cuscó Berga website reveals that they also have a tradition of making still wines too – and guess what, there are medal winners there too! So, I was delighted to receive a selection of their cavas and their wines recently for me to taste and see just why they are attracting such attention.
The Silver Medal winning Cuscó Berga Brut Reserva Ecológic is an organic sparkler with a modernist label, no doubt designed to appeal to the young to convince us all that it’s good to take off the blinkers and try wines that are older than the young cavas that so many of us buy. Such wines, when handled with care will still have that essential freshness, but will also give greater depth of flavour too.
This cava is termed ‘Reserva’, however its 24+ months ‘en rima’ (time spent resting on its lees in the cellar) is far longer than the minimum 15 months required before suc h a cava can legally be called ‘Reserva’. This extra time adds body and complexity too.
Made with the three traditional Cava varieties Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel.lo (which has the lion’s share of the blend) which have been farmed organically with each variety being fermented separately before the base wine is blended together before bottling, the makers also boast that the yeast used to provoke the second fermentation in bottle has been certificated as being clear of any genetically modified substance. The tiny amount of sugar that is also added at the same time is guaranteed to be from natural white cane in organic fields too!
This is a taught cava when it hits the palate, very fresh with acidity to keep it alive and stimulate the senses. Hold it on the palate and feel its weight! You’ll also taste a slight cider-esque flavour, which follows though from the faint apple you will have detected on the nose. The Xarel.lo adds the all important body, and the Parellada some finesse too. Match this cava with some fish, shellfish, salads and also some light chicken dishes.
Cuscó Berga Brut Nature Reserva made with grapes coming from the 2011 harvest is, as you see, labeled as a Reserva, however its 39 months ‘en rima’ qualify it for Gran Reserva status. This shows on the palate and also the after-taste, the length of time that one can still enjoy the wine even after you’ve swallowed it!
Fresh and clean again, after so long in the cellar, this is the driest style of sparkling wine, Brut Nature, often my favourite style. It is as refreshing as a joven, young, wine and yet it also has that greater depth. Green apples from the Macabeo again, but this time a lovely blanched almonds aroma as well, plus that tell-tale fizz aroma of yeasty patisserie notes as if you were passing the shop in the early hours of the morning. Superb with canapés, amuse bouche, starters, fish, shellfish, smoked salmon dishes and salads!
It was close, but my favourite cava was the Brut Gran Reserva made from grapes harvested way back in 2010 and having had the advantage of a very long 50 months en rima. That’s over four years!
So is it giving away its age at all, getting slightly past it? Not a bit of it! This wine is as fresh on the nose and the palate as far younger cavas, with super citrus notes and some sharp green apple. Hold it on the palate before swallowing and gradually its weight and depth with fill the mouth, giving some extra nutty flavours, with a granite minerality and added fresh green, and rounded yellow, melon in harmony too. Wow! (www.cuscoberga.com).
P.S. Japanese Cuisine meets Spanish Wine with Colin at Restaurante I-Sushi, Javea, Saturday 19th Nov. Includes superb music from Claire Marie (www.clairemarie.es). All for just 25€!! Please e-mail colin@colinharknessonwine.com or call 629 388 159 to reserve!